Melbourne

Melbourne's soul lives in its hidden laneways — a maze of narrow alleys like Hosier Lane and AC/DC Lane covered in ever-changing street art and murals, and lined with tiny hole-in-the-wall cafés, bars and boutiques. Wandering them, coffee in hand, discovering a new mural or a secret bar around each corner, is the quintessential Melbourne experience. Go with a camera and no fixed plan; the best way to feel the city's creative, café-loving heart. Utterly unmissable.

Melbourne is one of the great coffee cities of the world, and drinking it is a way of life — from tiny laneway espresso bars to serious specialty roasters, the flat white and the long black are taken seriously here. Pull up at a café, order a coffee and watch the city go by; the quality is astonishing and the café scene (with superb brunches to match) is central to Melbourne's identity. A delicious, everyday ritual and a real highlight. Don't leave without a proper flat white.

A beloved Melbourne institution for over 140 years — a huge, atmospheric open-air market with sheds of fresh produce, deli goods, cheese and seafood, plus clothing, crafts and souvenirs, and a lively summer night market with food stalls and music. A wonderful place to graze, shop and soak up the bustle; come for a bratwurst or a famous hot jam doughnut, browse the stalls, and feel the multicultural heart of the city. A tasty, characterful must, especially on a market morning.

The modern civic heart of the city — Federation Square, a bold contemporary plaza of galleries, cafés and events beside the Yarra, home to the Ian Potter Centre (NGV Australia) with its superb collection of Australian and Indigenous art. A great orientation point and a hub of city life, hosting festivals, screenings and gatherings year-round; take in the striking architecture, the art and the riverside setting. A lively, cultured centrepiece of Melbourne. Free to wander and explore.

The National Gallery of Victoria is Australia's oldest and most-visited art museum — a grand institution on St Kilda Road with a vast collection spanning European masters, Asian art, fashion and design, and blockbuster international exhibitions, all behind its iconic water-wall entrance. World-class and often free to enter, it's a cultural highlight of the city; wander the galleries, touch the famous water wall, and catch whatever major show is on. A superb, rainy-day-proof few hours. Don't miss it.

Melbourne's seaside escape — the bayside suburb of St Kilda, with its sandy beach and pier, palm-fringed promenade, the historic Luna Park funfair with its famous laughing-mouth entrance, and the cake shops and cafés of Acland Street. A fun, breezy half-day of beach, ice cream, sunset over the bay and a spin on the old rides; relaxed and full of character, it's the classic Melbourne day by the water. Lovely at sunset, and a tram ride from the centre. A local favourite.

Melbourne is Australia's sporting capital, and the mighty Melbourne Cricket Ground (the 'G') is its cathedral — a colossal 100,000-seat arena that hosts AFL footy and cricket and holds the National Sports Museum. Catch a game for an unforgettable, roaring atmosphere (AFL in winter, cricket in summer), or take a tour of the hallowed turf. Sport is woven into the city's soul, from footy to the Australian Open and the Grand Prix; a game here is a real Melbourne experience. Thrilling.

The bohemian, creative heart of Melbourne — Fitzroy, whose Brunswick and Gertrude streets buzz with vintage boutiques, record shops, street art, galleries, cool cafés and some of the city's best bars and live music. Wander the leafy Victorian streets, browse the shops, and settle into a café or a craft-beer bar; it's the perfect place to feel the city's hip, arty, unpretentious character. A must for anyone who wants to see the real, cool Melbourne beyond the sights. Endlessly enjoyable.

Melbourne is arguably Australia's best food city — a gloriously multicultural scene of Vietnamese, Greek, Italian, Chinese, Middle Eastern and modern-Australian restaurants, dumpling houses, rooftop bars and legendary brunch spots. From Lygon Street's Italian classics to the Vietnamese of Richmond and the laneway hideaways, eating is a joy here. Graze the markets, book a buzzy dinner, or just brunch like a local; the quality, variety and value are superb. A delicious highlight of any visit. Come hungry.

The Yarra River winds through the heart of the city, and its Southbank promenade is a lovely place to stroll — lined with restaurants, bars and the arts precinct, with rowers on the water, a Ferris wheel and the city skyline glinting above. Take a riverside walk or a cruise, watch the fire-breathing towers of the casino at night, and admire the bridges and boats; a relaxed, scenic way to see the city from its river. Especially pretty in the evening. A pleasant, central highlight.

Melbourne's Little Italy — leafy Lygon Street in Carlton, lined with Italian restaurants, gelaterias, cafés and delis, the birthplace of the city's café culture and still a wonderful place to eat pasta, sip espresso and soak up the atmosphere. Stroll the tree-lined street, tuck into a plate of pasta or a gelato, and enjoy the old-world charm; nearby are the grand Carlton Gardens and museum. A tasty, atmospheric slice of Melbourne's Italian heritage. Lovely for a long lunch or dinner.

A magnificent 38-hectare oasis just south of the centre — the Royal Botanic Gardens, with sweeping lawns, ornamental lakes, thousands of plant species and lovely city views, a beloved spot for a picnic, a stroll or the summer Moonlight Cinema. Wander the beautiful landscaped grounds, spot the eels and birds on the lake, and escape the city bustle; the adjoining Kings Domain holds the Shrine of Remembrance. A peaceful, green highlight and a gorgeous place to relax. A local treasure.

In leafy Carlton Gardens stand two treasures — the excellent modern Melbourne Museum, with superb natural-history, Indigenous (the Bunjilaka centre) and cultural galleries, beside the grand UNESCO-listed Royal Exhibition Building, one of the world's last great 19th-century exhibition halls. A rewarding cultural half-day, especially strong on Aboriginal culture and Australia's story; explore the museum, then admire the magnificent domed hall and gardens outside. Excellent for families and curious travellers alike.

A magical local secret — at dusk each evening, a colony of little penguins waddles ashore among the rocks of the St Kilda breakwater, just minutes from the city. Walk out along the pier at sunset to watch them (quietly, without flash) return to their burrows, a delightful and free wildlife encounter right on the bay. Combine it with a sunset stroll and dinner in St Kilda; a charming, only-in-Melbourne experience that surprises everyone. Wonderful for all ages, and completely free.

Melbourne's nightlife is legendary and hidden in plain sight — secret laneway cocktail bars, rooftop bars with skyline views, craft-beer dens, live-music pubs (this is a great live-music town) and buzzing clubs, especially around Fitzroy, the CBD laneways and Chapel Street. Hunt down an unmarked basement bar, catch a band, or sip a cocktail above the rooftops; the scene is creative, varied and world-class. A brilliant way to spend an evening, and a real part of the city's character. Endlessly fun.