Brussels

One of the most beautiful squares in the world — the Grand-Place, a breathtaking cobbled plaza ringed by ornate, gilded guildhalls, the soaring Gothic Town Hall and the grand King's House, glittering with gold leaf and elaborate baroque carving. UNESCO-listed and dazzling, it's the magnificent heart of Brussels, lined with cafés and chocolate shops, and transformed by events like the summer Flower Carpet and the Christmas market. Simply standing in the square, gazing at the golden facades, is unforgettable, especially when floodlit at night. Utterly unmissable. The city's crown jewel.

Brussels is the world capital of chocolate, and indulging is essential — from the historic royal chocolatiers around the beautiful Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert to artisan shops all over the centre, the city's pralines, truffles and ganaches are sublime. Sample and buy handmade chocolates, watch them being made, and taste the difference between the great houses; a chocolate tasting or shop-hop is a delicious, quintessential Brussels experience. Don't miss the fresh pralines from a master chocolatier; it's a mouth-watering highlight. A must-do; utterly delicious.

Brussels' cheeky, beloved mascot — the Manneken Pis, a tiny bronze statue of a little boy merrily peeing into a fountain, a symbol of the city's irreverent, surrealist humour since the 17th century, often dressed up in one of hundreds of costumes for special occasions. Famously (and deliberately) underwhelming in size, it's a fun, quintessential Brussels photo stop, tucked in the lanes near the Grand-Place. Snap the little statue, check what outfit he's wearing, and embrace the quirky charm; there's even a female and a dog version nearby. A fun, iconic (if tiny) highlight. Quirky and essential.

One of Europe's most striking modern landmarks — the Atomium, a colossal, gleaming structure of nine giant steel spheres connected by tubes, representing an iron crystal magnified 165 billion times, built for the 1958 World's Fair on the city's northern edge. Ride the escalators and lift up through the futuristic spheres for exhibitions and panoramic views over Brussels, and admire the surreal, space-age design. A fun, retro-futuristic and photogenic highlight, near the Mini-Europe park. Go up for the views and the sci-fi spheres; it's a quirky, memorable Brussels icon. A striking, unmissable landmark. Retro and cool.

Belgium makes the world's greatest beers, and Brussels is a wonderful place to drink them — cosy old brown cafés and specialist beer bars (like the legendary Delirium Café, with a record-breaking list) pour a dizzying range of Trappist, abbey, lambic, gueuze and blonde ales, each in its own branded glass. Brussels is the home of the sour lambic and gueuze beers; sample a flight, or try a fruity kriek. Settle into a historic café and explore the astonishing variety; it's a delicious, only-in-Belgium ritual. A tasty, essential highlight. Savour the range; a beer-lover's paradise.

Belgium gave the world the surrealist master René Magritte, and the Magritte Museum on the Mont des Arts holds the largest collection of his work anywhere — the bowler-hatted men, floating apples, pipes that are 'not a pipe', and dreamlike, witty images that defined surrealism. Beautifully presented across several floors, it's a fascinating, mind-bending journey through the artist's world and a highlight for art lovers. Immerse yourself in Magritte's strange, playful genius; it perfectly captures the city's surreal streak. A superb, essential cultural highlight. Fascinating and delightfully odd.

Two of Belgium's most beloved street foods are essential eating in Brussels — the waffle (gaufre), either the light, sugar-studded Liège style or the fluffy, topping-piled Brussels style, and the frites (chips), fried twice to golden perfection and served in a cone with mayonnaise or a dozen other sauces from a classic 'friterie'. Grab a hot waffle dusted with sugar and a cone of proper Belgian chips; they're cheap, delicious and quintessentially Belgian. Don't miss either; a tasty, only-here street-food highlight. Utterly delicious; the chips are the best in Europe.

One of Europe's oldest and most beautiful shopping arcades — the Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert, an elegant, glass-roofed 19th-century gallery of grand arches, lined with historic chocolatiers, cafés, boutiques and a cinema and theatre, near the Grand-Place. Stroll the light-filled, ornate arcade to admire the architecture, browse the luxury chocolate shops, and stop for a coffee or a praline in genteel surrounds; it's a lovely, atmospheric slice of old-world Brussels. Wander through for the beautiful architecture and the chocolate; a charming, central highlight. Elegant and delightful.

Belgium is the home of the comic strip (Tintin, the Smurfs, Lucky Luke), and Brussels celebrates it everywhere — follow the Comic Strip Route to find dozens of huge, colourful murals of beloved characters painted on buildings across the centre, and visit the Belgian Comic Strip Center, housed in a gorgeous Horta-designed Art Nouveau building, for the full story. Hunt the murals with a map, and dive into the museum; it's a fun, free (for the murals) and quintessentially Belgian way to explore the city. A colourful, characterful highlight. Delightful for all ages.

Brussels is one of the world capitals of Art Nouveau, and its architecture is a highlight — the flowing, organic, iron-and-glass masterpieces of Victor Horta (several UNESCO-listed, including his own house-museum), and countless beautiful facades across Saint-Gilles and Ixelles. Take a self-guided or organised Art Nouveau walk to admire the swirling ironwork, stained glass and elegant townhouses, and tour the Horta Museum for the full effect. A gorgeous, cultured way to explore the city's residential neighbourhoods; a treat for architecture lovers. A beautiful, essential highlight. Elegant and unique.

One of Europe's great art collections — the Royal Museums of Fine Arts of Belgium on the Mont des Arts, spanning centuries of Flemish and Belgian masters, from the astonishing detail of Bruegel, Van der Weyden and Rubens to Ensor, the symbolists and the surrealists (the Magritte Museum is part of the complex). Beautifully displayed and rich in world-class art, it's a highlight for art lovers and a cool refuge on a rainy day. Wander the galleries of Flemish masterpieces; the collection is superb and easily fills a rewarding few hours. An excellent, essential cultural highlight. World-class.

The elegant, genteel Sablon district is a lovely place to wander — its beautiful sloping square, the Place du Grand Sablon, is ringed by antique shops, art galleries, luxury chocolatiers (Wittamer, Pierre Marcolini) and cafés, with a lovely Gothic church and a weekend antiques market, near the pretty Petit Sablon garden. Browse the antiques and galleries, indulge in the finest chocolate, and enjoy the refined atmosphere; it's the city's most upmarket and charming quarter. A pleasant, upscale highlight for strolling and shopping. Elegant and delicious; lovely for a genteel afternoon.

For quirky, local Brussels, head to the Marolles — a characterful old working-class quarter whose daily flea market on the Place du Jeu de Balle is a treasure trove of antiques, vintage curiosities, bric-a-brac and junk, spread across the cobbles from dawn, surrounded by antique shops, cafés and street art. Rummage for a bargain or a curio, soak up the bohemian, un-touristy atmosphere, and enjoy the surrounding cafés and the view from the Palace of Justice above. A fun, authentic and characterful highlight. Great for a rummage and a slice of real Brussels; go in the morning.

Belgian cuisine is hearty and delicious, and Brussels is the place to try the classics — above all moules-frites (a steaming pot of mussels with chips), plus carbonnade flamande (beef stewed in beer), stoemp, waterzooi, and shrimp croquettes, all best washed down with a Belgian beer. Feast on a pot of mussels and chips in a classic brasserie, and try the beer-based stews; the food is rich, comforting and satisfying. Don't miss the moules-frites; it's a tasty, quintessential Belgian highlight. Delicious and hearty; come hungry.

Brussels' nightlife is laid-back, varied and cheaper than you might expect — from historic brown cafés and specialist beer bars in the centre (the Delirium alley is legendary), to the buzzing bars and clubs of Saint-Gilles, Ixelles and the Flagey and Châtelain areas, plus a lively cosmopolitan, student and EU-crowd scene. Sip Trappist ales in an old café, bar-hop the trendy southern districts, or catch live jazz and DJs; the mood is friendly and unpretentious. A fun, relaxed way to end a day in the city. Enjoyable and great value; something for every mood.