Ghent

The most beautiful spot in Ghent — a stretch of the old harbour where two quays face each other across the water, lined with a magnificent row of medieval and Renaissance guildhalls, their stepped gables reflected in the canal. The heart of the city and its most iconic view, especially magical when floodlit at night; sit on the quayside steps with a beer, watch the boats, and soak up centuries of Flemish wealth and beauty. Simply stunning.

A brooding, moated medieval castle of the Counts of Flanders, rising right in the middle of the city — a genuine 12th-century fortress of stone walls, towers and a keep, with a wonderfully witty audio-guide, a torture museum and superb views from the ramparts. A rare thing: a real castle in the heart of a city; climb the battlements for the view over the towers and rooftops. Atmospheric, fun and a highlight for all ages.

In St Bavo's Cathedral hangs one of the most important paintings in Western art — the Van Eyck brothers' dazzling 15th-century 'Adoration of the Mystic Lamb', a revolutionary, jewel-like masterpiece of early oil painting, now stunningly restored and shown with an augmented-reality experience. A genuine art-historical wonder and a bucket-list sight for any art lover; the cathedral itself is magnificent too. Unmissable, and worth the small entrance fee.

Ghent's soaring 14th-century belfry, a UNESCO site and one of the city's famous three towers — climb (or take the lift) up past the great bells and the dragon weathervane to a viewing platform with a superb panorama over the medieval rooftops, canals and spires. A wonderful overview of the beautiful city centre and a dose of its proud, independent history; go up for the view, and enjoy the sound of the carillon. A classic Ghent experience.

The loveliest way to see Ghent is from the water — a boat tour glides along the canals past the guildhalls, the castle and the medieval quays, with the towers rising overhead and the whole beautiful city sliding by from a new angle. A relaxing, scenic 40 minutes and a great orientation; go in the late afternoon or early evening for the best light, or rent a small electric boat to explore yourself. A magical, quintessential Ghent experience.

A gorgeous medieval maze of tiny cobbled lanes and old brick houses behind the castle — once the tanners' quarter, now Ghent's most atmospheric dining district, packed with characterful restaurants and bars. Wander the fairy-tale streets, admire the leaning old houses, and settle in for dinner in one of the loveliest little quarters in Belgium; car-free, quiet and utterly charming, especially in the evening. A romantic, delicious corner of the city.

Ghent eats superbly — its own creamy chicken-or-fish stew waterzooi, plus Flemish classics like stoofvlees (beef stewed in beer), moules-frites, and the local sweet 'cuberdon' (neuzeke) cone-shaped jellies sold from carts on the squares. Ghent is also Europe's veggie capital, with a famous meat-free Thursday and superb vegetarian food. Eat in a Patershol bistro or a canalside café; hearty, delicious and washed down, of course, with great Belgian beer.

Belgium makes the world's greatest beers, and Ghent is a wonderful place to drink them — cosy old brown cafés and specialist beer bars pour a dizzying range of Trappist, abbey, lambic and blonde ales, including the city's own strong 'Gruut' and the legendary 'Delirium'. Try the beloved Dulle Griet bar (where you leave a shoe as deposit for the giant 'Kwak' glass); a delicious, only-in-Belgium ritual. Sip slowly and savour the astonishing variety.

A little alley in the heart of the old town given over entirely to legal street art — a narrow, ever-changing gallery where anyone can spray, so the walls are repainted constantly in a riot of colour and creativity. A fun, photogenic surprise amid the medieval grandeur, and a nod to Ghent's youthful, creative spirit (the city has a great street-art scene throughout); pop in with a camera to see what's new. A colourful, quirky highlight.

In the leafy Citadelpark stand two of Belgium's finest art museums, facing each other — the MSK Fine Arts Museum, with a superb collection from Flemish Primitives (Bosch, Bruegel) to Ensor and modern masters, and across the way the SMAK contemporary-art museum, one of the country's best. A rewarding cultural half-day for art lovers, in a pleasant park setting near the station; the MSK in particular is a gem, spanning centuries of great art.

As a big university town, Ghent has a brilliant, cheap and buzzing nightlife — from cosy beer cafés and canalside terraces in the centre to the raucous student clubs and bars of the Overpoort strip. The mood is friendly, young and unpretentious; sip Trappist ales in an old brown café, catch live music, or party with the students till late. Cheaper and livelier than touristy Bruges, it's one of the city's great, under-the-radar pleasures.

The third of Ghent's famous towers — a beautiful blue-grey Scheldt-Gothic church rising in the very centre, forming with the belfry and cathedral the unforgettable line of three great towers that defines the skyline. Step inside the soaring, luminous interior, then admire the towers together from the St Michael's Bridge nearby, one of the best views in the city. A magnificent piece of the medieval core, and free to enter. Beautiful and central.

A lovely, leafy park south of the centre near the station — winding paths, ponds, a bandstand, grottoes and the two big art museums, a green escape where students and locals come to relax. A pleasant spot for a stroll or picnic between museum visits, and a breather from the medieval bustle; combine it with the MSK and SMAK galleries it holds. A relaxed, green corner of the city, easy to reach and enjoyable in fine weather.

Ghent's squares host lively markets — the grand Vrijdagmarkt (Friday Market) square has held markets for centuries and now buzzes with cafés and terraces, while a big flower-and-food market and Sunday markets fill the centre. A colourful, local way to soak up city life; browse the stalls, sit out on the historic square with a coffee or beer, and watch Ghent go about its day. A pleasant, authentic slice of the city, best on market mornings.

The single best view in Ghent — from St Michael's Bridge over the Leie, the whole medieval city lines up in one breathtaking panorama: the three towers, the guildhalls of the Graslei and Korenlei, the castle and the reflections in the water. The classic Ghent photograph and a magical spot at any time, but especially at dusk when the whole scene is floodlit and mirrored in the canal. Free, unforgettable, and the perfect way to grasp the beauty of the city.