Montreal

The romantic soul of the city — Vieux-Montréal, a beautifully preserved quarter of cobbled streets, 18th- and 19th-century grey-stone buildings, horse-drawn carriages, the lovely Place Jacques-Cartier square, boutiques, galleries and cafés, all with a distinctly European feel. Simply wandering its atmospheric lanes down to the Old Port, admiring the architecture and soaking up the charm, is the essential Montreal experience. Go by day for the beauty and evening for the glow; it feels like a slice of France in North America. Utterly charming and unmissable.

One of the most beautiful churches in North America — the Notre-Dame Basilica in Old Montreal, whose Gothic Revival exterior hides a breathtaking interior of deep-blue, star-studded vaulted ceilings, intricate wood carving, gold leaf and stunning stained glass depicting the city's history. Step inside to gasp at the sheer beauty, or catch the spectacular 'Aura' light-and-sound show that illuminates the interior after dark. A jaw-dropping, essential highlight and the city's most magnificent building. Unmissable; the light show is magical. Simply stunning.

The green heart of the city — Mount Royal, the leafy hill (designed by the man behind New York's Central Park) that gives Montreal its name, with wooded trails, a lake and, from the Kondiaronk Belvédère, a spectacular panorama over downtown, the river and beyond. Hike or stroll up for the view, join the Sunday-afternoon 'tam-tams' drum circle in summer, or toboggan in winter. A beloved, free escape into nature right in the city, and the best skyline view; go at sunset. A wonderful, essential highlight. Beautiful year-round.

The revitalised waterfront along the St Lawrence — the Old Port, a lively riverside promenade with a giant Ferris wheel, a zipline, boat cruises and jet-boat rides on the rapids, a science centre, urban beach and, in winter, an atmospheric outdoor skating rink. Stroll the waterfront, take a river cruise, ride the wheel for the views, or skate under the winter lights; it's a fun, scenic playground beside the historic old town. A lively, family-friendly highlight in every season. Great for a relaxed few hours by the water.

Montreal's two most iconic foods are essential eating — the Montreal bagel, smaller, denser and sweeter than its New York rival, wood-fired and best eaten hot from legendary Mile End bakeries like St-Viateur or Fairmount, and the towering smoked-meat sandwich, piled high with peppery cured beef at institutions like Schwartz's Deli. Grab a warm bagel from the bakery and queue for a smoked-meat sandwich; both are delicious, cheap and quintessentially Montreal. A must-do, only-in-Montreal food pilgrimage. Come hungry; utterly delicious.

Montreal's most charming residential quarter — the Plateau-Mont-Royal, famous for its rows of colourful triplex houses with their distinctive exterior spiral staircases, tree-lined streets, leafy squares, and buzzing cafés, bistros and bars along Saint-Denis and Mont-Royal avenues. Wander the pretty streets to admire the quirky staircases and colourful facades, café-hop, and soak up the bohemian, local vibe; it's the perfect place to feel the real, stylish Montreal. A delightful, photogenic afternoon of strolling and people-watching. Lovely and characterful.

Montreal is one of North America's great food cities, and Quebec's beloved comfort food, poutine — crispy fries smothered in cheese curds and gravy — is essential (and gloriously indulgent). Beyond that, the city dazzles with French bistros, superb Portuguese chicken, Haitian and Vietnamese food, buzzy markets like Jean-Talon and Atwater, and a world-class fine-dining scene. Tuck into a late-night poutine, graze the markets, and book a great bistro; the quality, variety and value are outstanding. A delicious highlight of any visit. Eat well and often.

Canada's most-visited art museum — the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts (MMFA), a superb, sprawling complex with a rich collection spanning old masters, Impressionists, Canadian and Inuit art, contemporary works and world-class temporary blockbuster exhibitions, all free for the permanent collection. A cultural highlight in the elegant Golden Square Mile, it easily fills a few rewarding hours; check what major show is on. A wonderful, cultured stop (and a warm refuge in winter). Excellent for art lovers; the permanent galleries are free. A city highlight.

Montreal is one of the world's great festival cities, and summer is a non-stop party — the huge Montreal International Jazz Festival (the biggest on earth), the Just for Laughs comedy festival, Osheaga music festival, the international fireworks competition and countless free outdoor events, many centred on the Quartier des Spectacles. If you visit in summer, there's almost always a festival on, much of it free and buzzing with energy. Join the crowds for free concerts and shows; it's the city at its most joyful. A brilliant, quintessential summer highlight.

Montreal has one of the world's best street-art scenes, and Boulevard Saint-Laurent through the Plateau and Mile End is an open-air gallery of huge, spectacular murals (many created during the annual MURAL festival). Wander the streets with a camera to discover the giant, colourful works transforming the walls, from portraits to abstract pieces; there's a famous one of Leonard Cohen, a Montreal son. A free, vibrant and photogenic way to explore the city's creative side. A lovely, colourful walk; endlessly Instagrammable and fun.

The hip, delicious north of the city — Mile End, a bohemian, multicultural neighbourhood of legendary bagel shops, cool cafés, indie record stores, boutiques and a buzzing creative scene, near the wonderful Jean-Talon Market, one of North America's great open-air food markets, piled with Quebec produce, cheeses, maple products and prepared foods. Café-hop Mile End, then graze the market's stalls; it's a delicious, local window into the city's food culture. A tasty, atmospheric highlight away from the tourist trail. Lovely and mouth-watering.

A marvel born of Montreal's fierce winters — the RÉSO, or Underground City, the largest network of its kind in the world, a vast web of climate-controlled tunnels linking metro stations, shopping malls, food courts, offices and hotels beneath downtown. In the depths of winter you can shop, eat and explore for hours without ever going outside; it's a fascinating, practical curiosity and a lifesaver in the cold. Duck underground to escape the winter chill and browse the subterranean city. A quirky, only-in-Montreal experience. Handy and fascinating, especially in winter.

Montreal's famously vibrant and inclusive nightlife heart — the Gay Village, one of the largest in the world, along Rue Sainte-Catherine (car-free and hung with colourful decorations in summer), buzzing with bars, clubs, terraces and events, beside the youthful Quartier Latin around the university. Stroll the lively, welcoming streets, enjoy the terraces and nightlife, and soak up the inclusive, festive atmosphere; it's a joyful, energetic part of the city, especially in summer. A fun, welcoming night out for everyone. Lively and warm-hearted.

Montreal has some of the best nightlife in North America — a legendary scene spanning the buzzing bars and clubs of Boulevard Saint-Laurent ('The Main') and Crescent Street, cosy bistros and cocktail bars, live-music venues, and famously late licensing that keeps the party going. Sophisticated yet fun-loving and bilingual, the city knows how to enjoy itself; bar-hop the Plateau or the Main, catch live music, and dance late. A brilliant way to experience the city's joie de vivre after dark. Energetic, stylish and hugely enjoyable. A real highlight.

Canada's largest church and a major pilgrimage site — Saint Joseph's Oratory, a colossal domed basilica crowning the slopes of Mount Royal, its green copper dome one of the largest in the world and a landmark visible across the city. Climb (some pilgrims do so on their knees) or take the escalators up to the vast basilica, the votive chapel and the gardens, and drink in the sweeping views over the city. An impressive, serene and monumental highlight, a little off the central trail. A worthwhile visit for the architecture, the atmosphere and the views. Grand and peaceful.