Santiago

The great green hill rising from the city, and the best view in Santiago — ride the historic funicular or the cable car up to the summit, crowned by a white statue of the Virgin, for a sweeping panorama over the whole city to the wall of the snow-capped Andes beyond (spectacular on a clear day). A wonderful half-day of park, pools, gardens and views; go in the morning after rain, when the mountains are at their most vivid. Unmissable.

The historic heart of the city and the country — the grand main square, ringed by the cathedral, the central post office and the National History Museum, thronged with chess players, buskers, artists and life. The symbolic centre of Santiago since its founding in 1541; soak up the bustle, admire the buildings, and use it as the starting point for exploring the historic downtown around it. The lively, atmospheric core of the old city.

The neoclassical presidential palace — the site of the dramatic 1973 coup, when it was bombed and President Allende died, a pivotal moment in Chile's history. Watch the changing-of-the-guard ceremony out front, and visit the excellent underground Centro Cultural La Moneda beneath the square, which hosts world-class art exhibitions. A dignified, historically charged heart of the modern nation, and a moving link to Chile's turbulent recent past.

Santiago's bohemian heart — the colourful barrio of Bellavista, where the streets are covered in vibrant murals and street art, the pretty pastel houses of the Bellavista and Barrio Yungay areas glow, and the buzzing Patio Bellavista fills with bars and craft stalls. Wander with a camera to read the city's creative soul off its walls, then settle in for a drink; the most artistic, lively and photogenic neighbourhood in the city.

Santiago's historic central market, housed under a beautiful 19th-century wrought-iron roof — a bustling temple of Chile's astonishing seafood, from giant crabs and razor clams to conger eel, surrounded by lively restaurants where you can eat the freshest catch. A feast for the senses and the belly; slurp a bowl of paila marina fish stew or fresh ceviche amid the market bustle. A delicious, atmospheric plunge into the city's seafood culture. Come hungry.

Chile is one of the world's great wine countries, and Santiago sits amid its most famous valleys — taste superb Carmenère, Cabernet and Sauvignon Blanc at a city wine bar, or better still, take a day trip to the vineyards of the Maipo, Casablanca or Colchagua valleys, an easy ride from the city. A delicious highlight of any visit; do a tasting flight in town, or spend a day touring the beautiful, mountain-backed wineries. A must for wine lovers.

A charming, ornate little hill-park right in the centre, on the spot where the city was founded — a fairy-tale confection of terraces, fountains, statues and stone stairways climbing to a summit with lovely city views, wrapped in flowers and greenery. A delightful, romantic escape from the downtown bustle and a favourite of couples; climb up for the views and the pretty details, especially lovely in the late-afternoon light. A gem in the heart of Lastarria.

The whimsical Santiago home of the Nobel-winning poet Pablo Neruda, tucked into the Bellavista hillside — a quirky, ship-inspired house he built for his lover, full of his eccentric collections, secret passages and nautical touches, with a fascinating audio-guided tour of his life and loves. Charming, intimate and revealing, it's a lovely window into one of Chile's great cultural figures; combine it with a wander around the arty barrio around it. A delightful hour.

One of the finest museums in South America — a beautifully curated collection of pre-Columbian art and artefacts from across the Americas, from Andean textiles and gold to Mesoamerican ceramics and Chinchorro mummies, superbly displayed in a grand colonial building downtown. Compact, world-class and illuminating; a wonderful window into the sophisticated cultures of the continent before the conquest. A cultural highlight and a rewarding, cool couple of hours in the city centre.

The observation deck atop the Gran Torre Costanera, the tallest building in South America — a glass-walled sky deck 300 m up in the modern Las Condes district, with a breathtaking 360° view over the whole vast city to the ring of the Andes. Go on a clear afternoon or at sunset for the mountains and the city lights; a thrilling, high-altitude counterpoint to San Cristóbal's green hill. The best of modern, gleaming Santiago in one dizzying view.

Chilean food is comforting and seafood-rich — the hearty pastel de choclo (corn-and-meat pie), empanadas de pino, the giant completo hot dog piled with avocado, fresh ceviche and paila marina fish stew, and the ubiquitous pisco sour to drink. Graze the markets, the traditional 'picadas' and the smart new-Chilean restaurants of Lastarria; hearty, tasty and often overlooked. Wash it down with pisco or excellent Chilean wine. A delicious, underrated cuisine.

Chile's grand national fine-arts museum, in a beautiful belle-époque palace of glass and iron in the charming Bellas Artes barrio — a fine collection of Chilean and international art in an elegant, light-filled setting, with the contemporary art museum sharing the building. A rewarding, cultured stop in one of the city's loveliest neighbourhoods; admire the architecture as much as the art, then explore the cafés and galleries of Lastarria all around. A pleasant cultural hour or two.

The leafy, prosperous barrio of Providencia is where much of modern Santiago lives and plays — tree-lined avenues of cafés, restaurants, bookshops and boutiques, riverside parks and a relaxed, upscale buzz. A lovely area to stroll, café-hop and shop away from the tourist sights, with lovely spots like Barrio Italia (full of design shops and eateries) nearby; a window into comfortable, contemporary Santiago life. A pleasant, relaxed afternoon.

Santiago knows how to party — Bellavista and the Barrio Bellas Artes buzz with bars, clubs and live music, the terrazas of Lastarria fill on warm nights, and pisco sours flow everywhere. Cheaper and more laid-back than you might expect, with a friendly, sociable scene; start with a pisco sour, bar-hop Bellavista's murals-and-music streets, and dance late. From craft-beer bars to salsa clubs, the city's nights are great fun and easy to enjoy.

One of South America's most remarkable cemeteries — a vast, tree-lined city of the dead with grand mausoleums, tree-lined avenues and the tombs of Chile's presidents and notables, including a moving memorial to the victims of the Pinochet dictatorship. Atmospheric, historic and surprisingly beautiful, it's a poignant walk through the nation's history and a peaceful escape; a fascinating, off-the-beaten-path stop for those curious about Chile's past. Sombre but rewarding.