Cartagena

Simply wandering the walled old town is the great joy of Cartagena — a UNESCO-listed maze of narrow cobbled streets lined with balconied colonial mansions cascading with bougainvillea, opening onto flower-filled plazas, grand churches and horse-drawn carriages, all glowing in the tropical light. Endlessly beautiful and romantic, it rewards aimless strolling by day and by night; get lost, pause at the plazas, and photograph the doorways. The heart and soul of the city, and utterly unmissable.

The massive stone ramparts that ring the old city — built over centuries to fend off pirates and navies — are Cartagena's defining feature, and walking them at sunset is a magical must-do. Stroll the thick walls as the sky turns pink over the Caribbean, then join the crowds at Café del Mar for a sundowner atop the bastions. A romantic, atmospheric highlight and the classic Cartagena evening; time it for golden hour. The city's most memorable ritual, and free to walk. Utterly unmissable.

The greatest fortress the Spanish ever built in the Americas — a colossal hilltop castle of ramparts, tunnels and cannon that defended Cartagena's treasure against pirates and mighty naval sieges. Explore the labyrinth of dark passages and climb the battlements for a commanding view over the old town and the sea. A superb, atmospheric plunge into the city's dramatic pirate-and-conquest history, and a fine viewpoint; go early or late to beat the heat. A must-see monument and one of Cartagena's great sights.

The bohemian barrio of Getsemaní, just outside the walls, is Cartagena at its most vibrant and creative — a warren of lanes strung with colourful flags and umbrellas, walls covered in brilliant street art and murals, and the buzzing Plaza de la Trinidad, which fills every evening with locals, music, dancers and street food. Wander with a camera by day and soak up the buzz by night; grittier and cooler than the polished old town, it's the beating, authentic heart of the city. A joyful, photogenic must.

Cartagena's mainland beaches disappoint, but an hour's boat ride south lies paradise — the Rosario Islands, a coral archipelago in a national park, with the white sand, swaying palms and clear turquoise water of the postcard Caribbean. Spend a day (or a blissful overnight) swimming, snorkelling the reefs and lazing on a beach club or eco-lodge. The essential Cartagena beach escape and a highlight of any trip; book a reputable tour or hotel boat. Idyllic, and worth the early start. Unmissable.

Cartagena's food is a delicious Caribbean-Colombian fusion — fresh ceviche and grilled fish, coconut rice (arroz con coco), fried plantain, the beloved arepa de huevo, and stews rich with coastal flavours, plus a world-class fine-dining scene in the old town. Graze the palenquera fruit-sellers and street carts, feast on seafood in a colonial courtyard, and cool off with a fresh tropical juice or a limonada de coco. Vibrant, tropical and superb; a real highlight of the city. Come hungry.

The iconic yellow clock-tower gate, the Torre del Reloj, is the grand entrance to the walled city — the historic main gateway, opening onto the Plaza de los Coches, once the slave market and now a lively triangular plaza lined with colourful balconied houses and the sweet-sellers of the 'Portal de los Dulces'. A great landmark and orientation point at the heart of things; pass through the gate, buy some traditional sweets, and soak up the bustle. A quintessential, much-photographed Cartagena spot.

Cartagena's beautiful plazas are its living rooms — grand Plaza Santo Domingo, with its church, café terraces and a curvy Botero bronze; leafy Plaza de Bolívar with its shady benches and colonial buildings; and elegant Plaza San Diego, full of restaurants. Each evening they fill with music, diners and street performers under the warm night air. Plaza-hopping is one of the great pleasures of the old town; settle at a terrace, order a drink, and watch the romantic city come alive. Simply lovely.

Cartagena's nights are hot in every sense — dance salsa and champeta at legendary Café Havana in Getsemaní, sip cocktails at chic old-town rooftop bars with sea and rampart views, or party on a booze-cruise 'chiva' bus. The city pulses with Caribbean rhythm after dark, sultry and joyful; take a salsa lesson, bar-hop Getsemaní's plazas, and dance late in the warm night. Some of the best nightlife in Colombia, and a highlight of any visit. Sultry, musical and hugely fun.

Cartagena is glorious from the water — take a sunset cruise out into the bay to watch the sun sink behind the modern skyline of Bocagrande and the old walled city glow gold, cocktail in hand and Caribbean breeze in your hair. A romantic, relaxed way to see the city and its dramatic setting from a new angle, and to cool off from the heat; boats range from party catamarans to quiet sailboats. A lovely, breezy highlight, especially for couples. A memorable Cartagena evening.

Cartagena's streets are a delicious feast — sizzling arepas de huevo and carimañolas from the carts, fresh oysters and ceviche, and the iconic palenqueras, women in bright dresses balancing bowls of tropical fruit on their heads. Snack your way around the plazas and Getsemaní, cool off with a fresh mango or a coconut lemonade, and taste the city's Afro-Caribbean flavours cheaply and authentically. A vibrant, tasty and only-in-Cartagena experience; graze as you wander. Cheap, fun and delicious.

The most famous beach near the city — Playa Blanca on Barú, a long stretch of white sand and clear turquoise water an hour or so away by boat or road. Busy and touristy by day (and best enjoyed by staying overnight, when the crowds leave), it delivers the Caribbean beach the city itself lacks: swim, laze under a palm, and feast on fresh fish. A popular, easy beach day or overnight from Cartagena; go early or stay over for the quiet magic. A classic coastal escape.

For a beach without leaving the city, the high-rise strip of Bocagrande offers convenient, if grey-sand and lively, beaches lined with hotels, restaurants and vendors — a slice of everyday Colombian beach-holiday life, with the modern skyline behind and the old city a short ride away. Not the postcard Caribbean (that's on the islands), but handy for a quick swim, a beach lunch or a stroll; a glimpse of the modern, resort side of Cartagena. Convenient and cheerful, if not idyllic.

One of the finest colonial buildings in the city, the Palace of the Inquisition, now a museum charting Cartagena's history — including the chilling instruments and story of the Spanish Inquisition that once operated here, alongside pre-Columbian and colonial exhibits. A fascinating, sobering window into the city's dark and rich past, in a beautiful mansion on Plaza Bolívar; pair it with the excellent nearby Zenú gold museum. A rewarding cultural stop amid the old-town wandering. Illuminating and atmospheric.

A quirky, only-in-Colombia adventure an hour outside the city — El Totumo, a small mud volcano where you climb down into a warm crater of thick, mineral-rich mud, float weightlessly in the goo, get a massage, then rinse off in the adjacent lagoon. Bizarre, hilarious and strangely relaxing, it's a fun, muddy half-day out and a favourite traveller experience; go on an organised tour. A wonderfully offbeat contrast to the elegant old city. Silly, memorable and a lot of fun.