Medellín

The most powerful and uplifting thing to do in Medellín — Comuna 13, once the city's most violent barrio, now a dazzling open-air gallery of street art, music and hope, its steep hillside scaled by outdoor escalators. On a guided walking tour, hear the moving story of the neighbourhood's transformation from residents, marvel at the murals, and feel the vibrant energy of a community reborn. A profound, joyful and unforgettable window into the city's rebirth. Absolutely unmissable; go with a local guide.

Ride Medellín's pioneering cable cars — the Metrocable, built to connect the poor hillside barrios to the city and now offering breathtaking rides high over the valley, with sweeping views of the sea of red-brick houses climbing the mountains. Take it up to Parque Arví, a vast forested nature reserve with hiking trails and markets, for a cool escape and stunning panoramas. A brilliant, cheap and scenic experience that embodies the city's social transformation. A must-do; go on a clear morning for the best views.

The city's beloved open-air sculpture gallery — Plaza Botero, where 23 monumental bronze sculptures by Medellín's most famous son, the artist Fernando Botero, stand in the historic centre, all his signature plump, rounded figures. Wander among the huge, whimsical bronzes (rub them for luck), then step into the adjacent Museo de Antioquia for more Botero paintings. A joyful, free celebration of the city's proudest artist, right in the bustling heart of the old town. A must-see; combine it with the museum.

The most popular day trip from the city — Guatapé, a gorgeous, brightly painted lakeside town of colourful houses and ornate 'zócalo' friezes, beside the towering rock of El Peñol, which you climb via 700-odd steps for a jaw-dropping panorama over a maze of islands and turquoise water. A wonderful day of colour, climbing and lake scenery in the beautiful Antioquian countryside; wander the pretty streets and drink in the view from the rock. An unmissable, photogenic excursion. Go early to beat the crowds.

Medellín sits at the edge of Colombia's famous coffee country, and tasting it is a highlight — sip superb single-origin brews in the city's third-wave cafés, or take a day trip to a coffee finca (farm) in the green hills to see the beans picked, roasted and brewed, and learn the craft over a fresh cup. A delicious, aromatic window into Colombia's coffee soul, from city café to mountain plantation. A treat for coffee lovers; the finca tours are a lovely, scenic escape. Don't miss a proper Colombian coffee.

The leafy, upscale heart of visitor Medellín — El Poblado, with its hilly, tree-shaded streets, stylish cafés, boutiques, rooftop bars and the buzzing hub of Parque Lleras, ground zero for the city's nightlife. Wander the green streets, café-hop, browse the shops, and soak up the relaxed, prosperous vibe by day before the party starts. A pleasant, comfortable base and neighbourhood to explore, if the most touristy; the easy-going face of the city. Lovely for strolling, dining and people-watching.

Beside Plaza Botero stands the city's flagship art museum — the Museo de Antioquia, a grand Art Deco building housing the largest collection of Fernando Botero's paintings and sculptures (many donated by the artist himself), alongside pre-Columbian, colonial and contemporary Colombian art. A rewarding cultural stop that deepens the Botero experience of the plaza outside, and tells the region's artistic story. A cultured, cool escape in the heart of the old town; combine it with the sculpture square. Excellent for art lovers.

Antioquian ('paisa') food is hearty and generous — the legendary bandeja paisa, a groaning platter of beans, rice, minced beef, chicharrón, chorizo, fried egg, plantain, avocado and arepa, plus fresh tropical fruits, empanadas and sancocho stew. Tuck into a bandeja at a traditional restaurant (bring an appetite — it's enormous), graze the markets, and wash it down with fresh juices. A filling, tasty and quintessentially paisa experience, and superb value. A delicious plunge into the region's food culture. Come hungry.

The best way to understand Medellín's astonishing story is a guided tour — whether the graffiti and hip-hop culture of Comuna 13, a walking tour of the transformed centre and its 'social urbanism' (the library-parks, metro and cable cars that changed lives), or the Casa de la Memoria museum on the city's painful past. Hearing the history from locals who lived it is moving and eye-opening, and reveals the real triumph behind the postcard views. A profound, essential experience. Do at least one; it changes how you see the city.

Medellín is famous for its nightlife — from the buzzing bars and clubs of Parque Lleras in El Poblado to the more local scenes of Laureles' La 70 and the salsa and reggaeton clubs across town, the paisa capital knows how to party. Dance salsa and reggaeton (this is reggaeton's heartland), sip aguardiente or a craft beer, and join the famously warm, fun-loving locals; the energy runs late and joyful. A brilliant, lively way to experience the city's social soul. Sultry, musical and hugely fun.

Experience local, hip Medellín in Laureles — a leafy, grid-planned neighbourhood of tree-lined streets, relaxed plazas, superb local restaurants, craft-beer bars and the lively nightlife strip of La 70, all with a genuine, un-touristy feel. Café-hop, dine on great-value paisa food, and join locals for a beer or a dance without the El Poblado crowds; it's where savvy travellers and Medellín's young professionals hang out. A lovely, authentic window into everyday city life. Relaxed, real and increasingly beloved.

A green oasis in the north — the Jardín Botánico, a lovely free botanical garden of orchids, palms, lakes and iguanas with a striking wooden 'Orquideorama' pavilion, beside the excellent Parque Explora science museum and aquarium and the Planetarium. A relaxed, cultured cluster reached easily by metro, great for a calm morning, a picnic or a family outing; wander the gardens, spot the iguanas and enjoy the shade. A pleasant, leafy escape from the city bustle. Lovely and free (garden).

Explore Medellín's roots — the bustling historic centre with its grand old churches, the Plaza Botero, markets and the striking Parque de las Luces (a forest of light towers), plus the charming Pueblito Paisa, a replica of a traditional Antioquian village atop the Nutibara hill, with sweeping city views. A vivid, atmospheric plunge into the city's history and paisa heritage (explore the centre by day and with care); the little hilltop village is a lovely, easy stop for the panorama. A characterful cultural wander.

Discover the traditional side of the region in the paisa pueblos — leafy Envigado and Sabaneta on the city's edge, with their pretty plazas, old churches, local mondongo eateries and community feel, or a day trip to postcard towns like Jardín or Jericó, all cobbled streets, colourful balconies and coffee farms. A charming, authentic window into Antioquian small-town life beyond the city; wander the squares, sip coffee, and soak up the slower pace. A lovely, genuine contrast to urban Medellín. Delightful and relaxed.

For a sweeping view over the whole valley of red-brick barrios climbing the green mountains, head up one of Medellín's hills at golden hour — Cerro Nutibara (with the Pueblito Paisa), the El Volador hill, or a rooftop bar in El Poblado. As the sun sets and the city lights flicker on across the valley, you grasp the drama of Medellín's mountain setting. A magical, free way to end the day and appreciate the city's astonishing geography. Go on a clear evening for the best of the panorama. Lovely and romantic.