Havana

The magnificent, UNESCO-listed soul of the city — Old Havana, a magical maze of cobbled streets and grand colonial plazas (Plaza Vieja, Plaza de la Catedral, Plaza de Armas), beautifully restored mansions, cathedrals, museums, rum bars and music at every turn. Simply wandering its atmospheric streets, soaking up the faded grandeur, the vintage cars, the salsa and the life, is the essential Havana experience. Go by day for the beauty and evening for the magic; it feels like a living museum. Utterly captivating and unmissable. The heart of the city.

Nothing says Havana like its fleet of gleaming 1950s American classic cars — bright-pink Chevys, turquoise Buicks and Cadillacs cruising the streets, relics of the pre-revolution era lovingly kept running for decades. Hire one (a convertible is best) for a tour along the Malecón, past the sights and out to the grand plazas; riding in an open-top vintage Cadillac with the sea breeze and the city sliding by is pure, joyful, only-in-Havana magic. An iconic, unmissable and photogenic experience. A quintessential Havana thrill. Simply fabulous.

The soul of the city by the sea — the Malecón, an eight-kilometre seawall and promenade curving along the coast, where all of Havana comes to gather at sunset: lovers, fishermen, musicians, families and friends, sharing rum and music as waves crash over the wall and the sun sinks into the Straits of Florida. Stroll it in the golden evening, watch the classic cars cruise past and the life unfold; it's the city's beating, open-air living room. A magical, free and quintessential Havana experience, especially at dusk. Utterly atmospheric and unmissable.

Havana is the home of the mojito and the daiquiri, and drinking one where Hemingway did is essential — sip a mojito at La Bodeguita del Medio and a daiquiri at El Floridita (his favourite haunts), or find your own rum bar with live son and salsa. Cuban rum flows everywhere, cheap and excellent, and the cocktails are the real thing. Toast the city with a rum cocktail amid live music; it's a delicious, atmospheric and quintessentially Havana ritual. A tasty, unmissable highlight. Salud, and enjoy the music.

Music is the lifeblood of Havana, and hearing it live is the soul of any visit — from spontaneous street bands playing son and salsa, to the legendary Buena Vista Social Club-style shows, to sweaty, joyous salsa clubs where locals dance with breathtaking skill. Catch a live band in a plaza or a bar, take a salsa lesson, or dance the night away at a club like the Casa de la Música; the rhythm is irresistible and everywhere. A magical, essential, only-in-Havana experience that captures the city's joyful spirit. Utterly infectious and unmissable.

Old Havana is built around a series of beautiful colonial squares, each with its own character — the elegant Plaza Vieja with its restored mansions and courtyards, the cathedral-fronted Plaza de la Catedral, the leafy Plaza de Armas with its book market, and the grand Plaza de San Francisco by the port. Plaza-hopping between them, pausing at a café or for live music, admiring the arcades and pastel facades, is one of the great pleasures of the old town. A lovely, atmospheric and central highlight. Simply gorgeous; the heart of colonial Havana.

One of the most beautiful spots in the old town — the Havana Cathedral, a magnificent Cuban Baroque church of curving, weathered stone with two asymmetrical bell towers, fronting the lovely cobbled Plaza de la Catedral, ringed by colonial mansions (one now a restaurant, another the home of a rum museum). Admire the striking facade, step inside the church, and soak up the atmosphere of the plaza with its cafés and buskers. A beautiful, photogenic and central highlight of Old Havana. A must-see; especially lovely in the morning light. Serene and grand.

The grand civic showpiece of the city — El Capitolio, a majestic domed building resembling the US Capitol (and slightly taller), beautifully restored, standing at the edge of the old town beside the elegant, tree-and-marble Paseo del Prado promenade where locals stroll and children play. Admire the imposing dome and facade, walk the atmospheric Prado between its bronze lions, and take in the grand architecture and the classic cars lined up outside. A striking, central highlight and a great orientation point. A magnificent, photogenic landmark. Grand and impressive.

The vast, austere heart of revolutionary Cuba — the Plaza de la Revolución, a huge civic square dominated by the towering José Martí memorial and, across it, the iconic steel-line portraits of Che Guevara and Camilo Cienfuegos on the government ministry facades, where Fidel Castro once addressed enormous crowds. A powerful, evocative window into modern Cuban history and its ubiquitous iconography; snap the famous Che mural and feel the weight of the revolution. A fascinating, if stark, essential stop, usually visited by classic-car tour. Historic and striking.

Cuba makes the world's finest cigars, and Havana is the place to experience them — tour a cigar factory (like Partagás) to watch the leaves hand-rolled by skilled 'torcedores', browse the humidors of famous brands, or simply enjoy a fine Cohiba or Montecristo with a rum in a bar, as generations have done. Whether you smoke or not, the craft, history and ritual are fascinating; buy from official shops to avoid fakes. A quintessential, only-in-Cuba experience and a window into the island's heritage. A memorable highlight for aficionados. Rich in history and craft.

Guarding the harbour entrance across the bay stand Havana's great colonial fortresses — the iconic Morro Castle with its lighthouse, and the vast La Cabaña fortress, offering spectacular views back across the water to the old city skyline. Each evening at 9pm, soldiers in 18th-century costume perform the atmospheric 'El Cañonazo' cannon-firing ceremony, a centuries-old tradition once marking the closing of the city gates. Visit for the history, the harbour views and the nightly cannon spectacle. A dramatic, evocative highlight, especially at sunset and for the ceremony. Impressive and atmospheric.

Cuban food is hearty and comforting — ropa vieja (shredded beef), roast pork, rice and black beans (moros y cristianos), fried plantains, and fresh seafood, best enjoyed at a 'paladar', a privately run restaurant that's usually far better (and more characterful) than the state-run places, often set in a beautiful old mansion or rooftop with live music. Seek out a good paladar for a memorable meal, and try the classics; the private restaurants have transformed Havana's dining. A tasty, atmospheric highlight (and a boost to local families). Delicious and characterful.

A riot of colour and Afro-Cuban culture in Centro Habana — the Callejón de Hamel, a narrow alley transformed by artist Salvador González into a vivid open-air gallery of murals, mosaics, sculptures and found-object art celebrating Santería and Afro-Cuban traditions. On Sunday afternoons it comes alive with pulsating live rumba music and dancing. Wander the psychedelic lane any day for the art, or come Sunday for the raw, joyous rumba; it's a fascinating, vibrant window into Afro-Cuban spirituality and creativity. A colourful, atmospheric highlight. Vivid and unique.

A grand dame of faded glamour — the Hotel Nacional, a majestic 1930s clifftop hotel overlooking the Malecón, which has hosted everyone from Winston Churchill and Frank Sinatra to mobster Meyer Lansky (who ran a famous mob summit here). Even if you're not staying, come for a mojito on the gorgeous garden terrace overlooking the sea, soak up the old-world atmosphere and the history (there's a fascinating little museum of its storied past), and admire the elegant public rooms. A lovely, atmospheric spot for a drink and a dose of history. Grand and nostalgic.

Havana's nights are legendary and music-fuelled — from the glittering, feathered cabaret spectacle of the famous Tropicana, to sweaty salsa clubs, the artsy Fábrica de Arte Cubano (a converted factory of galleries, bars and live music, one of the coolest venues anywhere), and rum-soaked live-music bars across Vedado. Dance salsa till dawn, catch a cabaret, or explore the Fábrica de Arte; the city's nightlife is joyous, creative and utterly infectious. A brilliant, essential way to experience Havana's spirit after dark. Vibrant and unforgettable; don't miss the Fábrica de Arte.