Santorini

The most famous sunset in the world — the sun sinking into the caldera behind Oia's white village and blue domes, applauded nightly by a thousand people. Yes it's a scrum; arrive early for a spot on the castle ruins, or watch from a quieter terrace with a glass of Assyrtiko instead.

The great Santorini hike — a 10-km cliff path along the caldera rim from Fira through Firostefani and Imerovigli to Oia, with the volcano and the blue below you the whole way. Three or four unforgettable hours; go early or late to dodge the heat, and time it to reach Oia for sunset.

The lively capital clinging to the cliff edge — cobbled lanes of shops and cafés, the caldera dropping away beneath your table, and terraces made for a long lunch with a view. Wander the rim path, watch the cruise ships far below, and feel the drama of the setting from the island's busy heart.

Even without the sunset, Oia is the most beautiful village in Greece — a maze of white cave houses, boutiques and windmills tumbling down the cliff, and the blue-domed churches of a million postcards. Wander its car-free lanes in the morning calm, before the crowds and the coaches arrive.

Sail out into the caldera to the black volcanic islet of Nea Kameni, climb to the steaming crater at its heart, then swim in the warm, sulphurous hot springs off the boat. A classic half- or full-day trip, often with a stop at quiet Thirassia and a sunset sail back; the island's fiery core up close.

The volcanic soil and sea mist make Santorini one of Greece's great wine islands — its crisp, mineral Assyrtiko whites and sweet Vinsanto grown on vines coiled into low baskets against the wind. Tour a caldera-view winery for a tasting at sunset; the setting is as good as the wine.

A dramatic rocky promontory jutting into the caldera below Imerovigli, crowned with the ruins of a medieval fortress — a short, steep scramble out to it for one of the island's most spectacular and least crowded viewpoints, with a tiny chapel on the far side. Wear proper shoes; the reward is huge.

Down 300 steps (or a switchback road) below Oia lies a tiny red-cliffed fishing port — waterside tavernas serving the day's catch, and a swim off the rocks by the little chapel islet. The perfect end to an Oia morning; go for a long, late seafood lunch, then a dip in the deep blue.

Santorini's beaches are like nowhere else — long stretches of jet-black volcanic sand and pebbles on the east and south coasts at Kamari and Perissa, lined with tavernas and sunbeds. The sand gets scorching, so bring flip-flops; the swimming is warm, and it's a total change from the cliffs.

A 'Bronze Age Pompeii' — a remarkably preserved Minoan town buried under volcanic ash 3,600 years ago, with multi-storey houses, streets and frescoes, all under a modern roof. A genuinely astonishing site and the island's deep history; small, cool and a fascinating hour away from the beaches nearby.

A striking cove backed by towering rust-red volcanic cliffs near Akrotiri, the water a deep blue against the red sand — one of the island's most photogenic swims. Reached by a short scramble over the headland (mind the loose rock); combine it with Akrotiri and the southern beaches.

The prettiest of the inland villages and the old island capital — a tangle of whitewashed lanes and churches winding up to a Venetian castle with a view over the whole island to the sea. Quiet, authentic and blissfully un-touristy; climb to the top at sunset for a caldera-free panorama.

Ride the cable car down the cliff from Fira to the old port far below on the water — or brave the 588 zig-zag steps (sharing them with the donkeys, which we'd rather you didn't ride). A quick thrill with a stunning view of the caldera wall; the port has a few tavernas and boat departures.

The volcanic soil gives the island a cuisine of its own — sweet cherry tomatoes fried into tomatokeftedes fritters, creamy fava (yellow split-pea purée), white aubergines, capers and the freshest grilled fish. Eat it at a village taverna or an Amoudi harbour table, with a cold Assyrtiko.

After the sunset the party is in Fira — caldera-edge cocktail bars, clubs down by the theatre, and a lively, international crowd that keeps going till dawn in high summer. Not Mykonos, but plenty of fun; start with a sundowner on the rim and see where the night takes you.