Mumbai

Mumbai's defining monument — the majestic Gateway of India, a grand basalt arch built to welcome a British king, standing proudly on the waterfront where the Arabian Sea laps the city, opposite the iconic Taj Mahal Palace hotel. Thronged with visitors, vendors, photographers and boats to Elephanta, it's the buzzing symbolic heart of the city; come at sunrise for calm or evening for the crowds and lights. The essential first stop and photo in Mumbai. Grand, historic and unmissable.

The soul of the city by the sea — Marine Drive, a graceful curving three-kilometre promenade along the Arabian Sea, backed by a wall of Art Deco buildings and lit up at night into the sparkling 'Queen's Necklace'. Join Mumbaikars strolling, courting, snacking and watching the sunset over the water; it's where the whole city comes to breathe. A magical, free, quintessential Mumbai experience, especially at dusk. The best place to feel the city's rhythm. Utterly lovely and unmissable.

One of the most spectacular railway stations on earth — Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (CSMT), a UNESCO-listed masterpiece of Victorian Gothic architecture, all soaring turrets, stained glass, gargoyles and domes, through which millions of commuters surge daily. Admire the extraordinary façade (floodlit at night), and step inside to feel the astonishing pulse of Mumbai's local trains. A jaw-dropping fusion of Victorian and Indian styles and a living monument; a photographic and architectural highlight. Simply stunning.

A short boat trip across the harbour lands you at the UNESCO-listed Elephanta Caves — ancient rock-cut Hindu temples on a green island, carved with magnificent sculptures of Shiva, including a colossal three-headed masterpiece. The atmospheric caves, the scenic ferry ride and the island's calm make a wonderful half-day escape from the city's intensity. A remarkable, spiritual highlight and a window into India's ancient artistry; go in the morning and watch for the cheeky monkeys. A memorable, worthwhile trip.

Mumbai is India's street-food capital, and grazing it is a joy — vada pav (the city's beloved potato-fritter burger), pav bhaji, bhel puri, pani puri and fresh seafood, sizzling on carts from Chowpatty to Juhu. Cheap, delicious and endlessly varied, it's the tastiest way to experience the city; try a vada pav from a street stall, a plate of bhel on the beach, and a kulfi to finish. An essential, flavour-packed part of any Mumbai visit. Eat where the locals queue. Utterly delicious.

One of Mumbai's most extraordinary sights — Dhobi Ghat, the world's largest open-air laundry, where hundreds of washermen (dhobis) scrub, beat and dry the city's clothes in endless rows of concrete pens, a mesmerising, choreographed spectacle of colour and labour. View it from the Mahalaxmi railway bridge above for the classic panorama, or take a guided walk down among the pens. A fascinating, humbling window into the city's working life; unlike anything else. A remarkable, photogenic must-see.

The buzzing shopping heart of tourist Mumbai — Colaba Causeway, a lively street market lined with stalls and shops selling clothes, jewellery, handicrafts, books and souvenirs, threaded with cafés (including the legendary Leopold Café) and colonial buildings. Haggle for trinkets and textiles, browse the pavement stalls, and soak up the atmosphere; it's chaotic, colourful and great fun. A classic Mumbai shopping-and-strolling experience in the heart of Colaba. Bargain hard and enjoy the bustle.

Mumbai's grand museum — the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya (the former Prince of Wales Museum), a beautiful Indo-Saracenic domed building housing a superb collection of Indian art, sculpture, miniature paintings, artefacts and natural history, set in lovely gardens. A cool, cultured escape from the heat and bustle, and a rich introduction to India's art and history; admire the architecture as much as the exhibits. A rewarding cultural stop in the heart of the colonial quarter. Excellent and atmospheric.

The city's beloved urban beach at the north end of Marine Drive — Chowpatty, where Mumbaikars gather at dusk for the sunset, the sea breeze, funfair rides and, above all, the sizzling street-food stalls piling up bhel puri, pav bhaji and kulfi. Not for swimming, but wonderful for the atmosphere: join the crowds, snack your way along the sand, and watch the city at play. A lively, colourful slice of everyday Mumbai life, especially magical in the evening. A fun, free, only-in-Mumbai experience.

Mumbai's coolest, most creative neighbourhood — Bandra, with its vibrant street art and murals (especially around Chapel Road and Ranwar village), hip cafés, boutiques, the old Portuguese-Catholic cottages, the seafront promenade and Bollywood-star mansions (fans gather outside Shah Rukh Khan's house, Mannat). Wander the arty lanes, café-hop, and soak up the young, fashionable, village-meets-city vibe. The place to see hip, modern Mumbai; a lovely, photogenic contrast to the colonial south. A great afternoon.

Dive into old Mumbai's teeming bazaars — the historic Crawford Market (Mahatma Jyotiba Phule Mandai), a grand Victorian hall piled with fruit, spices and goods, and the labyrinthine lanes of nearby markets selling everything from textiles to trinkets. A sensory overload of colour, noise, smells and haggling that reveals the city's trading soul; browse the spice and produce stalls and lose yourself in the chaos. A vivid, authentic plunge into everyday Mumbai commerce. Intense, colourful and fascinating.

Mumbai is the beating heart of Bollywood, the world's biggest film industry, and its magic is everywhere — catch a blockbuster in a grand old single-screen cinema for the full, whistling, cheering experience, take a studio tour to see how the films are made, or simply spot the star mansions in Bandra. A fun, only-in-Mumbai window into the movie obsession that shapes the city's dreams; even a cinema ticket is a memorable cultural plunge. A joyful, colourful highlight for film lovers.

Mumbai's spiritual side spans faiths — the beautiful Haji Ali Dargah, a white Islamic shrine and mosque reached by a causeway that floods at high tide, sitting out in the sea; the famous Siddhivinayak Hindu temple; and countless others. Visit Haji Ali for its striking setting and atmosphere (dress modestly), and the temples for a glimpse of the city's devout heart. A moving, colourful window into Mumbai's diverse religious life. Serene and photogenic; a lovely contrast to the city's bustle.

The big northern beach — Juhu, a long stretch of sand where Mumbai comes to unwind, especially at sunset, amid horse rides, funfair stalls and a legendary line-up of street-food carts serving pav bhaji, bhel and more. Not for swimming, but great for the atmosphere and the food, with Bollywood mansions lining the shore behind. Join the crowds, snack as you stroll, and watch the sun sink into the Arabian Sea. A lively, local seaside scene near the airport and Bandra. Fun and free.

Mumbai parties hard — India's most cosmopolitan nightlife spans rooftop bars with sea and skyline views, buzzing Bandra and Lower Parel lounges, craft-beer bars, clubs and the historic Colaba pubs like Leopold Café. Sip a cocktail above the Queen's Necklace, dance in a glamorous club, or join the young crowd in Bandra; the scene is stylish, energetic and surprisingly late. A brilliant way to see the modern, moneyed, fun-loving side of the city. Dress up and enjoy Mumbai after dark.