Luang Prabang

The soul of Luang Prabang, and one of the most moving sights in Asia — at first light each morning, hundreds of barefoot, saffron-robed monks file silently through the old town in a long orange procession to receive offerings of sticky rice from kneeling almsgivers. It's a living Buddhist ritual, centuries old, not a show — so watch quietly from a respectful distance, don't use flash or crowd the monks, and only take part if a local invites you and shows you how. Wake for it; it's unforgettable, and unlike anything else. Serene, humbling and profound. Go respectfully.

A jaw-dropping natural wonder half an hour out of town — the Kuang Si Falls, where a river tumbles down a series of tiered limestone pools of the most impossible milky-turquoise water, framed by jungle. Swim in the cool pools, climb the path beside the main cascade to the top, and visit the moon-bear rescue sanctuary by the entrance on the way in. Go early or late to beat the tour crowds; it's the most beautiful spot in the region and a blissful escape from the heat. Simply stunning. An absolute must. Bring your swimmers.

The classic Luang Prabang sunset — climbing the 300-odd steps up Mount Phousi, the forested hill at the heart of the peninsula, past little shrines to the gilded stupa on top, for a sweeping 360° panorama over the temple roofs, the two rivers and the mountains beyond as the sky turns pink and gold. It gets busy at sundown, so come early for a spot (or climb at dawn or midday for the view without the crush). A magical, only-in-Luang-Prabang overlook and a rite of passage. Beautiful; go for the panorama. Worth every step.

The most beautiful temple in Luang Prabang, and one of the finest in Laos — Wat Xieng Thong, a serene 16th-century royal monastery near the tip of the peninsula, with sweeping low-slung roofs that almost touch the ground, walls of gilt-on-black stencilwork, and the famous 'tree of life' mosaic in shimmering coloured glass on its rear wall. Wander the tranquil compound of chapels and stupas; it's the spiritual and artistic jewel of the old town and the loveliest of its many temples. Exquisite and peaceful. Don't miss it. Dress modestly.

Every evening the main street, Sisavangvong Road, closes to traffic and fills with the glow of the handicraft night market — rows of red-lantern-lit stalls selling Lao textiles, hand-woven scarves, saa-paper lanterns, silverwork, hill-tribe crafts and souvenirs, sold by Hmong and Lao artisans. It's calm and hassle-free by Asian standards (gentle bargaining, no hard sell), and one of the nicest night markets in the region. Browse the crafts, then duck down the alley off it for cheap, delicious street food. A lovely, atmospheric evening ritual. Charming and relaxed.

The former home of the Lao kings — the Royal Palace (Haw Kham), a graceful early-20th-century blend of French and Lao design, now a museum preserving the royal apartments, thrones, regalia and diplomatic gifts, along with the revered Phra Bang golden Buddha the town is named for, housed in its own ornate temple in the grounds. A fascinating, low-key window into Laos's royal past (which ended in 1975); wander the throne room and the gardens. Modest, elegant and worth an hour. Interesting and atmospheric. Dress modestly; no photos inside.

There's no better way to feel the rhythm of Luang Prabang than from the water — a slow wooden longboat cruise on the Mekong at golden hour, drifting past forested banks, riverside villages and fishermen as the sun sinks and the sky and river glow. Simple public sunset boats leave from the landings along the old town; sip a Beerlao, watch the light change, and glide back in the dusk. It's serene, romantic and cheap. Combine it with the Pak Ou Caves upriver by day for the fuller trip. A gorgeous, peaceful highlight. Magical at sunset.

A proper Lao night out at the table — sindad, the beloved Lao-Isaan barbecue-hotpot, where a domed metal grill sits over coals at your table: you grill strips of meat on top while a moat of broth around the edge simmers vegetables, noodles and egg into a soup. It's sociable, hands-on, delicious and cheap, best washed down with Beerlao at a riverside spot or a local grill house. Add the essentials — sticky rice, laap (the minced-meat national dish) and jeow (chilli dips) — and you've eaten Laos. A fun, tasty, quintessentially Lao meal. Come hungry.

A small, superb museum that unlocks the whole region — the Traditional Arts & Ethnology Centre, dedicated to Laos's many hill-tribe and ethnic minority peoples, with beautifully presented displays of their textiles, costumes, crafts, beliefs and daily life. It's the best place to understand the Hmong, Khmu, Akha and other cultures whose handiwork fills the night market, and it runs a lovely fair-trade craft shop and café. Thoughtful, engaging and quick to visit; it deepens everything you see afterwards. A genuinely enriching little highlight. Well worth an hour.

Luang Prabang's nightlife is famously mellow — think riverside cushions, not clubs — and its heart is Utopia, a legendary lantern-lit garden bar tucked above the Nam Khan, with low tables, river views and a barefoot, sundowner vibe. Nurse a Beerlao or a fruit shake as the light fades, and when the town's midnight curfew shuts everything else, the diehards head to the (in)famous bowling alley on the edge of town, the only late spot going. Low-key, friendly and charming rather than raucous. A lovely, easy evening. Gentle by design.

The old town has more than 30 working monasteries, and half the joy is simply wandering between them — starting with Wat Mai, the grand golden-fronted royal temple beside the palace, its façade a mass of gilt bas-relief. From there drift to Wat Sensoukharam's dazzling gold exterior, the watermelon-shaped stupa of Wat Visoun and dozens more, catching young novice monks chatting and chanting along the way. Free, endlessly photogenic and utterly peaceful; the temples are the town's living heartbeat. A serene, unhurried highlight. Wander slowly; dress modestly.

For real, unvarnished Lao life, nothing beats the morning market — Phosi Market (and the smaller riverside morning markets), a bustling local produce market where hill-tribe growers bring jungle vegetables, river fish, herbs, sticky rice, and all manner of things you won't recognise, from bamboo grubs to buffalo skin. It's authentic, cheap and endlessly fascinating, with stalls frying up breakfast noodles and grilling snacks. Come early, wander, and try something; it's a vivid, delicious glimpse of everyday Laos far from the souvenirs. A great, local highlight. Fascinating and genuine.

Just downriver lie the craft villages that make Luang Prabang's famous textiles — Ban Xang Khong and Ban Xieng Lek, where families still weave gorgeous silk and cotton on wooden looms and make traditional saa (mulberry) paper by hand. Reach them by a short boat or tuk-tuk ride, watch the weavers and papermakers at work, and buy beautiful scarves and lanterns straight from the makers at village prices. It's a lovely, authentic half-day that connects the crafts you'll see everywhere to the hands that make them. A charming, worthwhile outing. Support the artisans.

Luang Prabang has its own delicious food identity, and two things capture it. First, the local khao soi — nothing like the Thai version, but a comforting rice-noodle soup topped with a savoury pork-and-tomato-fermented-bean sauce, found in the morning markets. Second, the town's charming French-colonial café culture: a legacy of the old days, with excellent strong Lao coffee, fresh baguettes and pastries in the old town's pretty cafés. Have a bowl of khao soi for breakfast at the market, then a slow café coffee later; together they are Luang Prabang on a plate. Delicious and distinctive. Go local.

The best souvenir you can take home — a half-day Lao cooking class, where you'll typically start at the morning market to learn the ingredients, then cook the classics: laap (the minced-meat, herb and lime national dish), mok pa (fish steamed in banana leaf), jeow chilli dips, and of course sticky rice. Lao food is fresh, herby and underrated, and a class is a fun, hands-on, delicious way to understand it — often in a lovely garden or riverside setting. You eat everything you make. A brilliant, tasty half-day and a genuine skill to keep. Great fun.