Cusco

The lost city of the Incas — a breathtaking 15th-century citadel of stone terraces and temples draped along a dizzying ridge between jungle peaks, one of the New Seven Wonders of the World and simply unmissable. Reached by train (and bus) from the Sacred Valley, or the famous Inca Trail trek; book entry and train tickets months ahead.

The magnificent main square, ringed by arcaded colonnades and two great churches — the Cathedral, built with stones from the Inca fortress above, holds a famous painting of the Last Supper with a roast guinea pig on the table. The beating heart of Cusco; sit under the arches with a coca tea and watch the city go by.

A colossal Inca fortress-temple on the hill above the city — vast zigzag walls built from precisely fitted stones weighing up to 200 tonnes, a marvel of engineering that still baffles. A short walk or taxi up, with sweeping views over Cusco's red roofs; the venue, too, for the great Inti Raymi sun festival.

Vinicunca — a ridge of mineral-striped rock banded in astonishing rainbow colours, high in the mountains southeast of the city. A long day tour and a tough hike at over 5,000m (altitude is no joke here), but the surreal, otherworldly landscape is a bucket-list sight. Acclimatise first, go with a tour, and take it slow.

A spectacular Inca town in the Sacred Valley, still laid out on its original grid — a steep temple-fortress of giant terraces climbing the hillside, guarding the valley, with living Inca streets below. The gateway station for the Machu Picchu train, and a wonderful sight in itself; climb the terraces for the valley view.

The Incas' most sacred temple, once sheathed in gold — its superb, curved stone walls survive, with a Spanish convent (Santo Domingo) built on top, a striking symbol of the collision of two worlds. The finest Inca stonework in the city; marvel at how perfectly the mortarless blocks fit, and how they outlasted earthquakes.

At the head of the Sacred Valley, a dramatic Inca hillside of temples and terraces above the town of Pisac, which hosts one of the region's best craft-and-produce markets. Combine the ruins with the market for textiles and silver; a superb, easy Sacred Valley day trip from the city or the valley.

Cusco's wonderful central market — a riot of Andean produce, from mountains of potatoes and exotic fruit to cheese, chocolate, herbs and juice stalls, plus cheap food counters serving hearty local lunches. Come for a fresh juice and a bowl of soup, browse the textiles, and take the colourful pulse of everyday Cusco.

Wander the old lanes where colonial buildings sit atop flawless Inca foundations — most famously Hatun Rumiyoc, home to the celebrated 'twelve-angled stone', a single block cut to fit its neighbours perfectly. A short, atmospheric stroll that captures Cusco's layered soul; find the stone, and admire the mortarless masonry.

The bohemian hillside barrio — steep cobbled alleys of artisan studios, cafés and a pretty little plaza with a jewel of a carved wooden pulpit in its church, and lookouts with the best views over the city. A lovely place to wander, shop for crafts and pause for a coffee with a panorama; go slow, it's all uphill.

Two extraordinary Sacred Valley sights — Moray, a set of vast concentric circular Inca terraces thought to be an agricultural laboratory, and Maras, thousands of dazzling white salt pans cascading down a hillside, worked since Inca times. Surreal, photogenic and fascinating; usually combined in one valley tour.

Peru is a culinary powerhouse, and Cusco serves the Andean canon — hearty quinoa soups, lomo saltado, alpaca steaks, and, for the brave, cuy (roast guinea pig), a festive delicacy. Eat cheap and delicious at San Pedro Market, or splurge at one of the excellent Novo-Andean restaurants around the plaza.

A large white statue of Christ on the hill above San Blas, beside Sacsayhuamán, with his arms spread over the city — and a superb, easy-to-reach viewpoint over the whole red-roofed bowl of Cusco, especially at sunset and when the city lights come on. A short walk up from San Blas or a quick taxi; a lovely evening spot.

Peru's national cocktail — pisco grape brandy shaken with lime, syrup and egg white to a frothy tang — is the way to toast Cusco, and the plaza's bars, pubs and clubs make for a lively (if breathless, at altitude) night out. Start with a pisco sour on a plaza balcony at sunset, and see where the night leads.

The Cusco region is one of the world's great weaving cultures — dazzling alpaca textiles, dyed with natural pigments and woven on backstrap looms in patterns handed down for centuries. Watch weavers at work at a San Blas workshop or a valley cooperative, and buy the real thing (not the acrylic tourist stuff) at the source.