Lima

Lima is one of the world's great food cities, and its cuisine is the star of any visit — above all ceviche, the national dish of fresh raw fish 'cooked' in lime and chilli, plus tiradito, causa, lomo saltado, anticuchos and more, drawing on Peruvian, Japanese (Nikkei), Chinese (Chifa) and indigenous roots. Feast on ceviche at a cevichería (best at lunch, when the fish is freshest), and eat your way through the city's markets and restaurants. A delicious, essential highlight; Lima's food alone is worth the trip. Unmissable.

Miraflores' clifftop Malecón is one of Lima's great pleasures — a string of beautiful gardens and parks running for kilometres along the cliff edge high above the Pacific, with sweeping ocean views, the romantic Parque del Amor (with its Gaudí-esque mosaics and lovers' statue), paragliders soaring overhead, and glorious sunsets. Stroll, cycle or watch the paragliders leap from the cliffs, and time it for the sun sinking into the sea. A magical, free way to experience the city's coastal setting. Simply lovely.

Lima's bohemian soul — Barranco, a gorgeous seaside barrio of colourful old mansions, street art, galleries and cafés, centred on the romantic Puente de los Suspiros (Bridge of Sighs), where legend says you should hold your breath and make a wish crossing it. Wander the arty, photogenic streets, admire the murals and colonial-era houses, cross the famous bridge to the sea, and soak up the creative, romantic atmosphere. The city's most charming and characterful district. A delightful, unmissable wander.

The grand colonial heart of the city — the UNESCO-listed Plaza Mayor, ringed by the cathedral, the Government Palace (watch the changing of the guard) and the Archbishop's Palace with its magnificent carved wooden balconies, at the centre of the historic centre founded by Pizarro. Admire the ornate colonial architecture, the plazas and churches, and feel the weight of the city's history; the centre holds Lima's founding grandeur. A rich, atmospheric plunge into colonial Peru; explore by day. A must for history lovers.

One of Lima's most extraordinary sights — the beautiful yellow Baroque Monastery of San Francisco, with its stunning tiled cloisters and a magnificent old library, above eerie underground catacombs holding the bones of thousands, arranged in haunting geometric patterns. Tour the ornate church and cloisters, then descend into the atmospheric, bone-lined tunnels beneath the city. A fascinating, slightly macabre and unforgettable highlight of the historic centre. A remarkable window into colonial Lima; go on the guided tour. Unmissable and eerie.

One of the finest museums in the Americas — the Larco Museum, set in a beautiful 18th-century mansion draped in bougainvillea, with a dazzling collection of pre-Columbian gold, silver, textiles and ceramics spanning thousands of years of Peruvian civilisations (including a famous, cheekily displayed erotic-pottery gallery). Superbly curated and beautiful, with a lovely garden café, it's the essential introduction to Peru's ancient cultures. A world-class cultural highlight and a joy to visit. Unmissable, and gorgeous.

A remarkable ancient surprise in the heart of modern Miraflores — Huaca Pucllana, a great adobe-brick pyramid built by the pre-Inca Lima culture some 1,500 years ago, rising incongruously among the city's apartment blocks. Take a guided tour of the excavated ruins (lovely at night when floodlit), and marvel at the ancient engineering surrounded by the modern city; there's a superb restaurant overlooking the site. A fascinating, atmospheric glimpse of pre-Inca Peru without leaving the city. A unique, worthwhile highlight.

Lima is a global gastronomic capital, home to several of the world's very best restaurants (Central, Maido, Kjolle among them), where visionary chefs turn Peru's astonishing biodiversity and Nikkei and Andean traditions into unforgettable tasting menus. Splurge on a legendary tasting menu (book weeks ahead), or sample the creativity more affordably across the city's superb mid-range spots. A bucket-list experience for food lovers and a proud pinnacle of the Lima food scene. A truly special highlight; reserve well in advance.

Peru's national drink is the pisco sour — a frothy, tangy cocktail of pisco grape brandy, lime, egg white and bitters — and Lima is the place to master it. Sip one (or several) at a classic bar or a Barranco rooftop as the sun sets over the Pacific, and explore the range of piscos and pisco-based drinks like the chilcano. A delicious, quintessentially Peruvian ritual and a perfect accompaniment to the city's food and nightlife. A tasty highlight; try one at a historic bar or a clifftop terrace. Salud!

The lively social heart of Miraflores — Parque Kennedy, a leafy central park famous for its dozens of friendly resident cats, ringed by cafés, churros stalls, artists and evening markets, and buzzing with Limeño life. Relax on a bench among the cats, try a picarón (sweet fried doughnut), browse the craft stalls, and watch the city go by; nearby are the shops and restaurants of central Miraflores. A pleasant, free and quintessentially local slice of everyday Lima. A charming, easy stop, especially in the evening.

Barranco is Lima's art district, and its galleries are a highlight — above all MATE, the elegant museum of Peruvian-born fashion photographer Mario Testino, plus the contemporary MAC museum, artists' studios and the street art covering the barrio's walls. Explore the galleries and murals, admire Testino's iconic images, and soak up the creative energy of the neighbourhood. A rewarding cultural wander in the city's most artistic quarter; combine it with a stroll to the Bridge of Sighs. A lovely stop for art lovers.

Below Lima's cliffs runs the Costa Verde, a string of pebbly Pacific beaches where surfers ride the waves year-round beneath the clifftop city. In summer (Dec–March) the beaches fill with sun-seekers; year-round, it's a fine spot to watch the surfers, walk the shore, or take a beginner surf lesson in the birthplace of South American surfing. Not a tropical paradise, but a breezy, local slice of coastal Lima; go for the surf, the sea air and the cliff views above. A pleasant seaside escape. Best in summer.

Beyond the Plaza Mayor, Lima's historic centre is rich in colonial treasures — the ornate churches of Santo Domingo and La Merced, the beautiful carved wooden balconies that hang over the old streets, and the grand Casa de Aliaga mansion, lived in by the same family since 1535. Wander the atmospheric streets to admire the Baroque façades, tiled courtyards and famous balconies that define old Lima; a walking tour brings the history alive. A rich, characterful plunge into the colonial city. Best explored by day.

A tranquil green oasis in the upscale heart of the city — El Olivar, a lovely park of centuries-old olive trees (planted in colonial times) with lawns, a lagoon and birdlife, in the elegant, leafy district of San Isidro. Stroll among the ancient olives, relax by the lagoon, and enjoy the calm and greenery, then explore the smart cafés and top restaurants of the surrounding neighbourhood. A peaceful, refined escape from the city bustle and a glimpse of Lima's most graceful district. A pleasant, relaxed couple of hours.

Lima's nightlife is at its best in bohemian Barranco — a lively scene of rooftop bars, pisco dens, live-music venues, peñas (traditional Andean folk-music clubs) and buzzing clubs, all wrapped in the barrio's arty, romantic atmosphere. Sip a pisco sour on a terrace, catch live música criolla at a peña, or dance late in a converted mansion; the mood is creative and fun. A brilliant way to experience Lima after dark, with the sea breeze and the city's soul all around. Lively, atmospheric and hugely enjoyable.