Manila

The heart of old Manila — the 16th-century Spanish walled city, its stone bastions, gates and cobbled streets, and Fort Santiago, the riverside citadel where the national hero José Rizal spent his last night before execution. Explore on foot or by horse-drawn kalesa, soak up four centuries of history, and start any visit to the city here.

The oldest stone church in the Philippines, a UNESCO World Heritage site that survived every war and earthquake since 1607 — a magnificent baroque interior with a trompe-l'œil ceiling, carved doors and a beautiful cloister museum. A serene, awe-inspiring stop in the middle of Intramuros, and a favourite for the grand Spanish-era weddings still held here.

The grand Romanesque cathedral at the heart of Intramuros, rebuilt many times over four centuries — a soaring, peaceful interior of stained glass, a great rose window and one of the finest pipe organs in Asia. Free to enter between the frequent weddings; a beautiful, calm counterpoint to the noise outside, and the spiritual centre of Catholic Manila.

The great green heart of the city, where national hero José Rizal was executed and is now memorialised by an honour-guarded monument — sweeping lawns, fountains, gardens and locals at leisure, with the national museums lining one side. A pleasant, historic stroll and the symbolic centre of the Philippines; lovely in the cool of early morning or late afternoon.

Manila Bay serves up one of the most famous sunsets in Asia — the sky over the water blazing orange and violet behind the silhouetted ships and palms of the baywalk. Grab a spot along Roxas Boulevard, buy a drink or a skewer from a vendor, and watch the whole city pause for it. Simple, free and unforgettable; the classic Manila evening.

The world's oldest Chinatown is Manila's greatest food adventure — a frantic maze of century-old noodle houses, dumpling stalls, hopia bakeries and hole-in-the-wall eateries blending Chinese and Filipino flavours. Join a food crawl or just follow your nose: fresh lumpia, dim sum, kiam poy and dark strong coffee. Chaotic, cheap and utterly delicious.

The teeming spiritual heart of working-class Manila — the Minor Basilica of the Black Nazarene, home to the revered dark statue of Christ that draws millions, surrounded by a frenzied market of herbs, candles, amulets and fortune-tellers. Intense, gritty and deeply devout (watch your belongings); a raw, unforgettable slice of Filipino faith and street life.

One of Asia's most underrated cuisines — tangy adobo, crispy sizzling sisig, whole roast lechon, sour sinigang soup, and the wild purple-and-rainbow shaved ice of halo-halo for dessert. Manila is the place to dive in, from turo-turo canteens to smart modern-Filipino restaurants reinventing it. Bold, comforting and unlike anywhere else; come hungry and curious.

Three superb free museums in grand old government buildings by Rizal Park — Fine Arts, home to Juan Luna's vast, thrilling 'Spoliarium'; Anthropology, with pre-colonial gold and the Banaue cultures; and a lovely Natural History hall under a soaring 'Tree of Life' atrium. World-class, air-conditioned and free; a brilliant half-day and the best of the country under three roofs.

The comfortable, air-conditioned side of Manila — the interlinked Greenbelt and Ayala malls set around tropical gardens, ponds and a chapel, with the city's best shopping, restaurants and bars. A cool, safe refuge from the heat and traffic, and where much of Manila's middle-class life happens; a pleasant place to eat, browse and people-watch for an afternoon.

A sleek, modern museum in Makati that tells the Philippine story brilliantly — sixty exquisite hand-crafted dioramas of the nation's history, a dazzling collection of pre-colonial gold, and fine galleries of art and textiles. Compact, beautifully done and a great primer on the country; the perfect cultural pairing with a Makati shopping-and-dining afternoon.

The showcase of new Manila — Bonifacio High Street, a long, clean, walkable strip of open-air malls, parks and some of the city's best murals and public sculpture, buzzing with a young, moneyed crowd. A relaxed, orderly contrast to the old-city chaos; wander the art, graze the restaurants, and see where the Philippines is heading.

No trip to Manila is complete without a ride in a jeepney — the flamboyant, chrome-covered, hand-painted buses descended from WWII US army jeeps, the loud and lovable icon of Philippine roads. Hop on, pass your fare hand-to-hand up to the driver, and rattle through the city with the locals. Cheap, chaotic and pure Manila; a small adventure in itself.

Once the red-light fringe, now Manila's coolest nightlife district — a dense grid of speakeasies, rooftop bars, craft-beer joints and street food in old Makati, buzzing till late with a young, mixed crowd. Bar-hop the hidden cocktail dens, eat your way down the food-truck lanes, and see the city's most creative after-dark scene. Great fun, and walkable.

One of the biggest malls in the world, sprawling along the bay — shops and food beyond counting, an Olympic ice rink, an IMAX, a giant Ferris wheel on the seafront and its own sunset-watching esplanade. Air-conditioned respite, a fireworks-and-fun family evening, and a very Filipino love of the mega-mall; combine it with a bayside sunset for the full effect.

A ferry to the fortress island guarding Manila Bay — WWII gun batteries, tunnels and ruins, and a moving memorial to a brutal siege. A powerful day trip.

Two hours south to Tagaytay's cool ridge, looking down on a volcano inside a lake inside a volcano. Bracing air, great views, and bulalo soup for lunch.

The largest American WWII cemetery outside the US — 17,000 white crosses in immaculate lawns, and vast mosaic maps of the Pacific war. Serene and stirring.

A circular walled garden that was once a cemetery, now a pretty oasis of a chapel and creeper-covered walls in the middle of the city. A calm, romantic pocket.

Once Manila's grandest avenue, now a faded, fascinating strip of Art Deco buildings being slowly revived by artists and a Sunday market. Old Manila, reawakening.