Zürich

The twin-towered Romanesque church that is Zürich's symbol, where Zwingli launched the Swiss Reformation — climb the Karlsturm tower for the best view over the old town, the river and the lake to the Alps. Spare, powerful, and the heart of the city.

Step onto a boat at Bürkliplatz and glide out onto the lake, the city falling behind and the Alps rising ahead — a short round-trip or a long one to a lakeside village. The classic Zürich outing, and the best way to feel the setting.

One of the world's most exclusive shopping streets, running arrow-straight from the station to the lake past the watchmakers, chocolatiers and banks (the gold is stored beneath your feet). Window-shop the length of it, tram bells ringing, for the full moneyed-Zürich effect.

The car-free tangle of the east-bank old town — steep cobbled alleys, fountains, tiny squares, secondhand shops and wine bars, buzzing after dark. The most charming wander in Zürich, and the antidote to the buttoned-up banking district across the river.

A slender-spired church on the west bank whose plain interior holds an astonishing set of stained-glass windows by Marc Chagall — five soaring panels of jewel colour that light up the choir. Small, quiet, and quietly breathtaking.

In summer all Zürich heads for the water — wooden lake baths (Badis) and free shores where you dive into clean, cool Zürichsee with the Alps in view, then dry off with a drink. A gloriously civilised city ritual; Seebad Utoquai is the classic.

A tree-shaded terrace on the site of the Roman fort, high over the river with the old town rooftops and the Grossmünster's towers spread below — locals playing giant chess under the limes. The best free view in the centre; go at golden hour.

The whole story of Switzerland under one fairy-tale turreted roof beside the station — from Celtic gold and medieval altarpieces to how a country of mountains and cantons came to be. Grand, engaging and the best rainy-day couple of hours in the city.

A grand old railway viaduct whose arches now hold design shops, food stalls and a market hall, the anchor of the reborn industrial west. Browse the arches, eat well, and feel the other, younger Zürich — miles from the banks in every sense.

Switzerland's finest art museum — a deep collection from Monet's water lilies and a hall of Giacometti's spindly figures to Munch, Picasso and the Dada that was born in this city. Recently doubled in size; a serious couple of hours for anyone who loves painting.

This is the world capital of chocolate, and Zürich does it with reverence — a hot chocolate and a box of Sprüngli's featherlight Luxemburgerli macarons at the grand old Paradeplatz café is the sweetest ritual in town. Save room; it's worth every franc.

The city's own dish — thin-sliced veal in a creamy mushroom-and-white-wine sauce, with a crisp golden rösti to soak it up. Hearty, old-school and everywhere in the old town; the plate to order when you want to eat like a local Züricher.

A ramshackle, string-lit garden bar of shipping containers, murals and terraces under the railway in Zürich-West — drinks, grilled food and a young crowd all summer, cosy fondue chalets in winter. The most fun, least stuffy place to drink in the city.

A gift from Zürich's twin city Kunming — an ornate walled Chinese garden of pavilions and koi ponds on the lakeshore, in the parkland of the Zürichhorn. A serene, pretty stop on a lakeside stroll or bike ride out through leafy Seefeld.

Zürich lets its hair down on Langstrasse — a long, buzzing strip of bars, clubs, late kebabs and a mix of everyone, the one part of the polished city that stays scruffy and up all night. Skip the pricey lounges; this is where the real night out is.