Koh Samui

The most spectacular thing to do from Samui — a boat trip to the Ang Thong National Marine Park, an archipelago of 42 dramatic, jungle-topped limestone islands rising sheer from emerald water, made famous as the inspiration for 'The Beach'. Kayak among the karsts, snorkel over coral, hike to the viewpoint above the extraordinary hidden Emerald Lagoon (a saltwater lake in the heart of an island), and swim off deserted beaches. A stunning full-day escape into pristine island scenery. Go by speedboat or a slower boat; it's unmissable. Simply breathtaking.

Samui's most famous landmark — the Big Buddha, a golden 12-metre seated statue gleaming atop a small islet in the north-east, visible from planes coming in to land and reached by a causeway and a naga-flanked staircase. Beyond the serene, imposing Buddha itself, the temple complex has market stalls, food and views over the sea. It's free, quick and iconic; go in the late afternoon when the gold glows and it's cooler. A must-see (dress modestly — cover shoulders and knees). A serene, essential Samui sight. Impressive and calm.

The island's most famous beach — Chaweng, a long, glorious sweep of soft white sand and clear, calm turquoise water, backed by the buzzing resort strip. It's the liveliest beach on Samui, with loungers, water sports, beach bars and restaurants, and it's the hub of the island's action; swim, sunbathe, try a jet-ski or paddleboard, and stay for a sunset drink and the nightlife behind it. Busy and commercial, but a genuinely beautiful beach. A quintessential Samui beach day. Lovely and full of life.

The most characterful corner of Samui — Bophut's Fisherman's Village, a pretty little seafront street of restored old Chinese-Thai shophouses now full of stylish restaurants, cafés, boutiques and bars, with a lovely beachfront and a chic, relaxed buzz come evening. Wander the atmospheric lane, browse the shops, and settle in for a great dinner by the sea; it's the island's most charming spot for an evening and a refreshing change from the beach strips. Delightful, especially at dusk. A lovely, atmospheric highlight. Charming and photogenic.

Samui's second beach and a more relaxed rival to Chaweng — Lamai, a long, lovely curve of golden sand with good swimming, a calmer vibe and better value, backed by an easygoing strip of bars and restaurants. At its southern end sit the island's cheekiest landmark, the Hin Ta and Hin Yai ('Grandfather and Grandmother') rocks — natural formations of decidedly rude shapes that everyone comes to giggle at. Spend a laid-back beach day here, then walk to the rocks. A wonderful, relaxed beach with a fun quirk. Easygoing and pretty.

The island's most striking temple — Wat Plai Laem, a dazzling complex set around a lake in the north-east, dominated by an enormous, brilliant-white 18-armed statue of Guanyin, the goddess of mercy and compassion, alongside a huge, jolly laughing Buddha and vividly colourful Thai-Chinese shrines. You feed the lake's fish, wander the ornate grounds and admire the extraordinary sculptures; it's free, photogenic and quieter than the Big Buddha nearby (pair the two). A beautiful, serene and unusual highlight. Striking and peaceful. Dress modestly.

Samui is one of Asia's wellness capitals, and pampering here is glorious — from a blissful, absurdly cheap hour-long Thai massage at a simple beachside shop to world-class spa treatments and full detox-and-yoga retreats at the island's famous wellness resorts. After a day on the sand, surrender to a proper Thai massage or a spa afternoon; it's the perfect, quintessentially Thai way to unwind, and Samui does it better and more affordably than almost anywhere. A blissful, essential highlight. Utterly relaxing; treat yourself.

Samui's nightlife centres on Chaweng, and it's a proper night out — from the legendary Ark Bar beach party (fire shows and DJs on the sand) to the clubs and bars of the Green Mango and Soi Solo strips, plus buzzing beer bars and cabaret. It's lively and fun without Patong's full-on intensity; dance on the beach, bar-hop the strip, and see where the night takes you. For something wilder, the Full Moon Party on neighbouring Koh Phangan is a boat ride away. A fun, energetic night out. Lively and easygoing.

An island meal you'll remember — fresh Gulf seafood, grilled or wok-fried Thai-style, eaten with your toes near the sand. Pick your catch (prawns, crab, squid, whole fish) at a beachfront seafood restaurant and have it cooked to order with garlic, chilli and lime, alongside southern Thai classics and the island's own coconut-rich curries. Lamai, Bophut and the fishing villages do it beautifully and often cheaply; a candlelit seafood dinner by the water is a quintessential Samui evening. Delicious, fresh and unforgettable. Come hungry.

A refreshing escape into Samui's jungly interior — the Na Muang Waterfalls, two cascades tumbling over purple-tinged rock into pools you can swim in, set in the lush green heart of the island. The lower falls are an easy stroll; the taller upper falls a steeper jungle walk or a bumpy 4x4/quad ride (the area is a small adventure park). Cool off with a dip beneath the cascade, away from the beaches; it's a pretty, easy half-day and a taste of the island's wild interior. A lovely, refreshing highlight. Bring your swimmers.

Each night a different corner of Samui hosts a walking-street market, and the best is the Friday-night Fisherman's Village market in Bophut — the pretty old street closed to traffic and packed with stalls of sizzling street food, fresh seafood, local snacks, crafts, clothes and live music, in a lively, sociable buzz. Graze your way along the food stalls (this is where to eat cheaply and brilliantly), browse the crafts, and soak up the atmosphere. Chaweng and Lamai have their own nights too. A fun, tasty, atmospheric evening. Great for street food.

Samui's west coast delivers glorious sunsets, and there's no finer way to enjoy one than at a stylish beach club — sip cocktails by an infinity pool or on the sand at the chic spots strung along the quiet west and north-west coast (Lipa Noi and beyond), with DJs, daybeds and the sun melting into the Gulf. From glamorous pool clubs to laid-back beach bars, it's the island's sophisticated sundowner scene. Watch the sky turn gold with a drink in hand; a gorgeous, relaxed alternative to the Chaweng strip. Magical at sunset. Book a daybed at weekends.

For the island's best scenery, take the drive up into the mountainous interior to the Secret Buddha Garden (Magic Garden) — a quirky, magical hillside dotted with dozens of mossy statues of Buddhas, deities and people, built by an old fruit farmer, hidden in the jungle. The reward is as much the journey: a steep, spectacular drive through the green interior with sweeping viewpoints over the coast (the Lat Ko and Overlap Stone viewpoints are stunning). Go by 4x4 or a confident car; it's a lovely, offbeat half-day. Charming and scenic. A great island drive.

For a quieter, prettier swim than the main strips, seek out Silver Beach (Crystal Bay), a small, gorgeous cove tucked between Chaweng and Lamai — a crescent of soft white sand framed by big granite boulders, with clear, calm, turquoise water that's superb for swimming and snorkelling. It's more sheltered and scenic than the big beaches, with a couple of relaxed restaurants; come for a laid-back day in one of the island's loveliest little bays. A beautiful, low-key beach highlight. Peaceful and picture-perfect. Go early for a good spot.

For the island at its most peaceful, head to the long, palm-backed beaches of the north — Maenam and Bang Po, quiet, unspoilt stretches of soft sand with calm shallow water, a mellow local-village feel and barely a jet-ski in sight. It's the Samui of slow beach days, cheap seafood shacks, hammocks and sunsets, far from the resort bustle, and a favourite of families and long-stayers. Spend a lazy day swimming and dozing, then eat fresh seafood at a beachside shack. A wonderfully relaxed, authentic beach day. Calm and lovely.