Maui

One of the world's great drives — the Road to Hana, a spectacular 100km ribbon of narrow road that hugs Maui's lush windward coast, winding through rainforest across 600 curves and 50 one-lane bridges past a jaw-dropping parade of waterfalls, bamboo forests, black-sand beaches, sea cliffs and roadside fruit stands. It's the journey, not the destination: pull over for the waterfalls and swimming holes, the Garden of Eden, the Waianapanapa black-sand beach and the pools beyond Hana. Start at dawn, take it slow, and let someone else drive on the way back. An unforgettable, bucket-list day. Simply magical.

One of the most extraordinary experiences in Hawaii — watching the sunrise from the 3,055m summit of Haleakala, the vast dormant volcano that forms the whole eastern half of Maui. Rising in the freezing pre-dawn dark above a sea of clouds, you watch the sky ignite over a Mars-like crater of cinder cones in reds, golds and purples; it's spellbinding, and Mark Twain called it the sublimest sight he ever witnessed. Sunrise needs an advance reservation (and warm layers); sunset and the stargazing are magnificent too, with no booking needed. Hike into the crater if you can. Utterly unforgettable. Book the sunrise slot ahead and bundle up.

The best snorkelling in Maui, and one of the finest in Hawaii — a boat trip out to Molokini, a crescent-shaped sunken volcanic crater rising just offshore, whose sheltered inner bay holds astonishingly clear water (visibility often 45m+) teeming with hundreds of species of tropical fish, coral and turtles, plus reef sharks and rays. Snorkel or dive inside the crater in the calm early morning, then usually stop at 'Turtle Town' on the way back to swim with green sea turtles. A magical, essential day on the water; go early before the wind and crowds. Breathtaking underwater. Bring reef-safe sunscreen (it's the law).

Maui's most famous resort beach — Kaanapali, a glorious five-kilometre curve of golden sand and clear water on the sunny west coast, backed by resorts and the Whalers Village shops, with excellent swimming, snorkelling and a paved beach walk. Its highlight is Black Rock (Pu'u Keka'a) at the north end: a lava headland with wonderful snorkelling (turtles galore) and a nightly torch-lighting and cliff-diving ceremony at sunset that honours an old Hawaiian legend. Spend a classic beach day here, snorkel Black Rock, and stay for the sunset ritual. A beautiful, quintessential Maui beach. Lovely and lively.

Every winter Maui hosts one of nature's great spectacles — thousands of humpback whales migrate to the warm, shallow channel between Maui, Lanai and Molokai to breed and calve, and from December to April the water erupts with breaching, tail-slapping giants. Take a whale-watch boat out of Lahaina or Ma'alaea (often with naturalists and hydrophones to hear their songs) for close, respectful encounters, or simply watch them spout from the beaches and clifftops — they're astonishingly easy to spot. An awe-inspiring, only-in-winter highlight. Unforgettable. Bring binoculars if you're watching from shore.

The south shore's golden run of beaches is Maui at its most sun-soaked and beautiful, and Wailea is the jewel — a crescent of soft golden sand and calm, clear turquoise water backed by luxury resorts, with a gorgeous coastal path linking a string of equally lovely beaches (Polo, Mokapu, Ulua) and superb snorkelling off the rocky points. It's reliably sunny, calm and swimmable, perfect for a relaxed beach day, a sunset stroll along the boardwalk and a mai tai at a resort bar. A gorgeous, easy beach highlight on the island's driest coast. Beautiful and serene. Wonderful for families.

The north shore's Hookipa Beach is a Maui must-see on two counts — by day it's one of the world's premier windsurfing and surfing spots, where you can watch experts launch off big waves and rig colourful sails in the trade winds from the clifftop lookout; and in the late afternoon, dozens of giant green sea turtles (honu) haul out to rest on the sand, roped off and watched over by volunteers. Stop at the overlook for the wave action, then walk down to see the turtles basking at sunset. A brilliant, free, only-in-Maui highlight. Amazing to watch. Keep a respectful distance from the honu.

A quintessential Hawaiian night out — a luau, the traditional feast-and-show celebrating island culture, where you'll watch a whole pig lifted from the underground imu oven, feast on kalua pork, poi, poke and haupia, sip a mai tai, and be swept up in an evening of hula, chant and the mesmerising Samoan fire-knife dance, usually as the sun sets over the ocean. The big west- and south-side resorts host the best-known ones (the Old Lahaina Luau is legendary); it's touristy, yes, but genuinely fun, delicious and a warm introduction to Hawaiian tradition. A joyful, cultural highlight. Book ahead — the good ones sell out.

A show-stopper near the end of the Road to Hana — Waianapanapa State Park, home to a striking jet-black volcanic-sand beach set against emerald jungle, deep-blue sea, lava sea caves, a natural blow-hole and a dramatic coastal trail past sea arches. The contrast of black sand, green cliffs and turquoise water is spectacular and utterly Hawaiian; swim (carefully — the surf can be strong), explore the caves and walk the shoreline path. It now requires an advance reservation for out-of-state visitors, so book your slot. A stunning, essential Hana-road stop. Simply gorgeous. Reserve entry ahead.

A lush, sacred pocket of the island's green heart — Iao Valley State Park, a mist-wreathed rainforest gorge in the West Maui Mountains, centred on the Iao Needle (Kuka'emoku), a dramatic 370m green-clad volcanic pinnacle rising from the valley floor. Walk the short paved trails past the Needle lookout, tropical gardens and the cool stream, soaking up the dramatic scenery and the deep Hawaiian history of the place (it was the site of a pivotal 1790 battle). It's an easy, beautiful and culturally significant stop, especially lovely in the morning light before the clouds roll in. Peaceful and striking. Go early for clear views.

Maui's food is a delicious highlight, and two things are essential — poke, the Hawaiian dish of fresh raw ahi tuna cubes tossed with shoyu, sesame, seaweed and onion, sold by the pound at fish markets and grocery counters and eaten right there or on the beach; and the local 'plate lunch' (two scoops rice, mac salad and a protein like kalua pork, teriyaki or loco moco). Add a shave ice for dessert and a Maui Gold pineapple, and you've eaten the island. Paia and Kihei are full of great spots. Fresh, cheap and utterly local. Delicious and unmissable. Grab a poke bowl for a beach picnic.

The most spectacular stretch of undeveloped sand on the island — Makena (Big Beach) in Makena State Park, a vast, wild sweep of golden sand nearly a kilometre long and gloriously wide, backed by kiawe trees and cinder cones, with brilliant blue water and no resorts in sight. It's stunning for sunbathing, bodyboarding and sunsets (though the shore break is powerful — take care swimming), and a short scramble over the rocks at the north end leads to the clothing-optional Little Beach. Come for the raw, open beauty and the space. A gorgeous, unspoilt beach highlight. Bring water and shade — there's little there. Respect the strong surf.

A charming and unexpected side of Maui — cool, green Upcountry, centred on Makawao, a historic paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) town of wooden false-front buildings now full of art galleries, boutiques, a famous cream-puff bakery and a great Fourth-of-July rodeo. Around it spread the farmlands of the Haleakala slopes: lavender and protea farms, a goat dairy, the MauiWine estate at Ulupalakua and jacaranda-lined roads with sweeping views to the sea. Wander the town, tour a farm, and enjoy the cool air and slower pace far from the beaches. A delightful, offbeat highlight. Charming and refreshing. Lovely for a half-day drive.

To see Maui's most inaccessible beauty, take to the air or the trees — a helicopter tour lifts you over the island's hidden heart: plunging waterfalls, the jungle-choked walls of the West Maui Mountains, the vast Haleakala crater and the sea cliffs of neighbouring Molokai, revealing scenery you simply can't reach any other way. Prefer something more hands-on? Zipline through the upcountry forest canopy on Haleakala's slopes for a thrilling, scenic rush. Either is an exhilarating, only-on-vacation splurge with unforgettable views. Amazing and adventurous. Book a morning slot for the clearest skies.

The soul of Maui's north shore — Paia, a colourful, bohemian former plantation town of brightly painted wooden storefronts now packed with surf shops, art galleries, boutiques, health-food cafés and some of the island's best casual restaurants (the fish tacos and smoothies are legendary). It's the hippie-surfer heart of Maui, a great spot to browse, eat and people-watch, and the last real town before the Road to Hana, so fuel up here. Wander the two main streets, grab a bite and soak up the laid-back, free-spirited vibe. A fun, characterful highlight. Cool and delicious. Perfect for a Hana-road breakfast stop.