New Orleans

The magical heart of the city — the French Quarter, a compact grid of pastel Creole townhouses draped in lacy wrought-iron balconies, hidden courtyards, jazz drifting from doorways, atmospheric bars and the grand Jackson Square with its cathedral. Simply wandering its streets, soaking up the architecture, music and buzz (and steering around rowdy Bourbon Street), is the essential New Orleans experience. Go by day for the beauty and by night for the magic; it feels like nowhere else in America. Utterly unmissable and endlessly atmospheric.

New Orleans is the birthplace of jazz, and hearing it live is the soul of any visit — from the historic Preservation Hall (a tiny, sweaty shrine to traditional jazz) to the clubs of Frenchmen Street and the spontaneous brass bands and second-line parades in the streets. The music is everywhere, raw and joyous, and utterly woven into the city's being. Squeeze into Preservation Hall, wander Frenchmen Street's clubs, and follow a brass band; it's a magical, essential, only-in-New-Orleans experience. Soulful and unforgettable. Don't miss it.

A New Orleans institution since 1862 — Café du Monde, the famous open-air coffee stand by the river, where you sit under the green awning over a plate of hot, pillowy beignets buried in powdered sugar and a cup of chicory café au lait. It's touristy, cash-only and often busy, but utterly essential; the sugar-dusted beignets and chicory coffee are a quintessential New Orleans treat. Go early to beat the queue, and expect to wear some powdered sugar. A delicious, iconic ritual. A must-do, morning or late-night.

The locals' answer to Bourbon Street — Frenchmen Street in the Marigny, a two-block strip packed with live-music clubs where you can bar-hop between brass, jazz, funk and blues bands almost any night, plus a nightly outdoor art market. It's where New Orleanians go for the real music, without the drunken tourist chaos of Bourbon. Wander from club to club, catch a few sets, and soak up the authentic, joyous music scene; it's a highlight of any night in the city. The heart of the real New Orleans nightlife. Brilliant and unmissable.

New Orleans is one of America's greatest food cities, with a cuisine all its own — gumbo, jambalaya, crawfish étouffée, red beans and rice, char-grilled oysters, po'boys stuffed with fried shrimp, and muffuletta sandwiches, all rich with Creole and Cajun soul. Feast at a historic Creole restaurant, grab a po'boy from a corner shop, and slurp fresh Gulf oysters; the flavours are bold, comforting and unforgettable. A delicious, essential highlight and reason enough to visit. Eat everything; come very hungry. A true feast.

New Orleans at its most gracious — the Garden District, a gorgeous uptown neighbourhood of grand antebellum and Victorian mansions (some belonging to celebrities), oak-canopied avenues and the historic Lafayette Cemetery No. 1, reached by the charming St Charles streetcar. Stroll the beautiful, leafy streets to admire the opulent architecture and lush gardens, and browse the boutiques of Magazine Street nearby. A lovely, elegant contrast to the French Quarter's bustle; a peaceful, photogenic wander. A must for architecture lovers. Simply beautiful.

Ride history on the St Charles Avenue Streetcar — the oldest continuously operating streetcar line in the world, its charming olive-green cars rattling under a canopy of live oaks past the grand mansions of the Garden District and Uptown. Hop aboard for a scenic, cheap and quintessentially New Orleans journey, watching the beautiful avenue slide by; it's a lovely, relaxed way to see the uptown neighbourhoods. A delightful, historic experience and a joy in itself. A charming, must-do ride. Simply lovely.

New Orleans' famous 'cities of the dead' are unlike any other — because the city sits below sea level, the dead are buried above ground in atmospheric, crumbling tombs and mausoleums, creating hauntingly beautiful cemeteries like St Louis No. 1 (resting place of voodoo queen Marie Laveau). Take a guided tour to explore the eerie, ornate tombs and hear the stories, history and voodoo lore. A fascinating, atmospheric and uniquely New Orleans experience; go with a guide (some now require it). A haunting, memorable highlight. Evocative and unusual.

One of the finest museums in the USA — the National WWII Museum, a vast, immersive and deeply moving complex telling the story of the American experience in the Second World War through personal stories, restored aircraft and vehicles, immersive exhibits and a powerful 4D film. Superbly done and genuinely affecting, it easily fills half a day and ranks among the best museums in the country. A must for history lovers and a highlight of the city beyond the music and food. Excellent and moving; give it plenty of time.

The mighty Mississippi defines New Orleans, and its riverfront is a lovely place to stroll — walk the Moonwalk promenade for views of the river traffic and the Quarter, or better still, take a cruise on an authentic old paddle-wheel steamboat (the Natchez), with live jazz and the city sliding by from the water. A relaxing, scenic way to see the great river that made the city; the steamboat jazz cruise is a classic. A pleasant, atmospheric highlight. Lovely at sunset; a quintessential river experience.

A six-mile ribbon of local flavour — Magazine Street, running through the Garden District and Uptown, lined with independent boutiques, antique shops, art galleries, coffee houses, and some of the city's best casual restaurants and bars. Browse the eclectic shops, hunt for antiques and local art, and graze the great eateries; it's a lovely, relaxed way to see the local side of the city and shop away from the tourist trail. A pleasant, characterful afternoon of shopping and eating. A local favourite; charming and varied.

The city's most bohemian, creative quarter — Bywater, downriver from the Marigny, with its colourful shotgun cottages, vivid street art and murals, hip cafés and restaurants, craft-beer bars, and the lovely Crescent Park along the river with skyline views. Wander the arty streets to hunt out the murals, café-hop, and enjoy the laid-back, creative vibe far from the crowds. A great window into the young, artistic side of New Orleans, and endlessly photogenic. A lovely, offbeat afternoon. Cool and colourful.

One of America's oldest and most historically important African-American neighbourhoods — Tremé, the cradle of much of New Orleans' music and culture, home to Congo Square (where enslaved Africans once gathered to drum and dance, seeding jazz), the Backstreet Cultural Museum of Mardi Gras Indian and brass-band traditions, and a deep, living heritage. Explore the historic streets, the museum and Louis Armstrong Park; it's a moving, soulful window into the roots of the city's culture. A profound, essential cultural highlight. Deeply rewarding.

Just outside the city lie the eerie, beautiful bayous and swamps of the Louisiana wetlands — take a boat or airboat tour into the moss-draped cypress swamps to spot alligators, herons, turtles and snakes gliding through the still waters, and hear Cajun lore from a local guide. It's an atmospheric, thrilling and quintessentially Louisiana half-day out into the wild, watery landscape that surrounds New Orleans. A wonderful, adventurous escape from the city; a memorable brush with the bayou and its gators. Great fun and very Louisiana.

New Orleans is a cradle of the American cocktail — the birthplace of the Sazerac (its official drink) and home of the Ramos Gin Fizz, the Vieux Carré and the frozen, boozy Hurricane. Sip a Sazerac in a historic bar, try a Pimm's Cup at the ancient Napoleon House, or a Hurricane at Pat O'Brien's, and toast the city's deep drinking heritage. Uniquely, you can carry your drink through the streets in a 'go-cup'. A delicious, historic and very New Orleans pleasure; a wonderful way to spend an evening. Salut, and drink responsibly.