Granada

One of the greatest buildings on earth — the Alhambra, a sublime Moorish palace-fortress crowning its hill above Granada, whose Nasrid Palaces are a breathtaking symphony of intricate carved stucco, honeycomb ceilings, tranquil courtyards, reflecting pools and calligraphy, the finest surviving Islamic architecture in the West. Set against the Sierra Nevada, it is impossibly beautiful and deeply moving. Book weeks ahead (it sells out), and give it half a day at least. The reason most people come, and worth every bit of the trip. Utterly, unmissably magnificent.

The exquisite summer palace and gardens of the Alhambra — the Generalife, a serene paradise of manicured hedges, rose-lined walks, fountains and reflecting pools cascading down the hillside, designed as an earthly vision of heaven and offering gorgeous views back to the Alhambra and the city. Included with the Alhambra ticket, it's a tranquil, fragrant counterpoint to the palaces; wander the water gardens and courtyards and drink in the beauty and calm. A magical, essential part of the Alhambra visit; don't rush it. Serene and utterly lovely.

The most famous view in Granada — the Mirador de San Nicolás, a terrace high in the Albaicín, where the entire Alhambra spreads across the hill opposite against the snow-capped Sierra Nevada, unforgettable at sunset when the palace glows gold and the sky turns pink. Buskers play flamenco guitar as the crowds gather; it's pure magic. Climb the atmospheric white lanes to reach it, and time it for golden hour. A breathtaking, free and quintessential Granada experience; simply the best view in the city. Absolutely unmissable at sunset.

The soul of old Granada — the UNESCO-listed Albaicín, the ancient Moorish quarter, a magical labyrinth of steep, narrow whitewashed lanes, hidden plazas, walled carmen villas with secret gardens, Moorish teahouses and viewpoints, all tumbling down the hillside facing the Alhambra. Getting delightfully lost in its cobbled maze, discovering a viewpoint or a teahouse around each corner, is one of Spain's great pleasures. Wear good shoes and give it a whole afternoon. The most atmospheric and beautiful quarter in the city. Enchanting and unmissable.

Granada keeps alive one of Spain's best traditions — free tapas with every drink. Order a beer or wine at a traditional bar and a plate of food arrives free, and keeps coming with each round, from jamón and cheese to fried fish, stews and tortilla. Bar-hopping the tapas trail (around Calle Navas, the Realejo and Elvira) for the price of a few drinks is delicious, sociable and superb value — the tastiest way to eat and drink in the city. An essential, only-in-Granada delight; go where the locals crowd. Utterly brilliant.

Granada's grand Renaissance cathedral, a soaring, dazzling-white masterpiece begun after the Reconquista, adjoins the Royal Chapel (Capilla Real), the ornate mausoleum where the Catholic Monarchs Ferdinand and Isabella — who conquered Moorish Granada in 1492 — lie buried in magnificent marble tombs. Together they tell the story of the city's dramatic turning point. Admire the luminous cathedral interior and the royal tombs and treasures next door; a rich, central plunge into Granada's pivotal history. A grand, essential highlight in the heart of the city. Impressive and historic.

Granada is a cradle of flamenco, and there's no more atmospheric place to see it than the caves of Sacromonte — the old Roma quarter, where whitewashed cave venues host intimate, fiery 'zambra' shows of raw guitar, song, hand-clapping and passionate dance, sometimes with the Alhambra glittering outside. The close-up intensity in a cave setting is spine-tingling and unforgettable. Choose a reputable venue for an authentic show; it's a magical, only-in-Granada experience and a highlight of any visit. Passionate, intimate and utterly captivating.

Wander the atmospheric Alcaicería — the restored old Moorish silk-market lanes near the cathedral, now a maze of narrow alleys packed with colourful stalls selling Moroccan-style lamps, ceramics, spices, teas, textiles and trinkets, evoking Granada's Islamic past. Nearby, Calle Calderería Nueva (the 'little Morocco' street) brims with teahouses, hookah bars and North African shops. Browse, haggle and soak up the exotic, Moorish-flavoured atmosphere; it's colourful, aromatic and evocative. A lovely, characterful stroll in the heart of the old city. Vivid and atmospheric.

A legacy of Granada's Moorish soul — the teterías, exotic tea houses clustered on Calle Calderería Nueva and through the Albaicín, where you sip fragrant mint tea and sweet infusions amid cushions, lanterns, mosaic tables and North African decor, with honeyed pastries and hookahs. Duck into one to escape the heat and the crowds, and enjoy a moment of aromatic, atmospheric calm straight out of a thousand-and-one nights. A delightful, evocative and only-in-Granada experience; a lovely pause between the sights. Relaxing and enchanting.

A dazzling baroque surprise on the city's edge — the Monasterio de la Cartuja, whose plain exterior hides an interior of jaw-dropping, over-the-top baroque exuberance: a sacristy of swirling marble and stucco often called the 'Christian Alhambra', dripping with gold, colour and astonishing decoration. A short trip from the centre, it's one of Spain's most spectacular baroque interiors and a striking contrast to the Moorish sights. Go for the sheer, dazzling excess of the sacristy and church. A remarkable, lesser-visited highlight. Breathtakingly ornate.

The old Jewish quarter, the Realejo, is one of Granada's most characterful areas — a hilly tangle of lanes climbing towards the Alhambra, dotted with striking street art and murals (many by celebrated local artist 'El Niño de las Pinturas'), superb tapas bars, leafy squares and carmen villas. Wander to hunt out the powerful murals, tuck into some of the city's best free tapas, and soak up the authentic, arty neighbourhood vibe. A wonderful, less-touristed quarter that blends history, art and great food. A lovely, atmospheric wander. Cool and genuine.

The hillside quarter of Sacromonte is famously honeycombed with cave dwellings, traditionally home to Granada's Roma community and the birthplace of the local zambra flamenco. Visit the excellent Sacromonte Caves Museum (Museo Cuevas del Sacromonte), a set of restored caves showing how people lived, with displays on the area's culture and flamenco, and some of the best Alhambra-and-valley views in the city. A fascinating, atmospheric window into a unique way of life, combined with stunning panoramas. A characterful, rewarding highlight off the main trail. Unique and scenic.

A hidden gem beside the Alhambra — the Carmen de los Mártires, a romantic 19th-century villa and garden on the Alhambra hill, with palm-lined walks, fountains, a little lake with black swans and peacocks, grottoes and gorgeous views over Granada, all far quieter than the palace nearby. Free to enter, it's a tranquil, dreamy escape and one of the loveliest gardens in the city; wander the terraces and enjoy the peace and the vistas. A beautiful, romantic and little-known highlight; a perfect calm counterpoint to the crowds. Serene and enchanting.

Relax the Moorish way in one of Granada's beautiful Arab baths (hammams) — atmospheric, candlelit spaces of warm, hot and cold pools, steam, mosaic tiles and mint tea, inspired by the city's Islamic heritage and often housed in restored historic buildings near the cathedral. Soak, steam and enjoy an optional massage in the sensuous, aromatic calm; it's a wonderfully relaxing and evocative way to unwind after the hilly sightseeing. A blissful, only-in-Andalusia treat that connects you to Granada's Moorish soul. A lovely, restorative highlight. Book ahead.

The snow-capped peaks that form Granada's backdrop are barely 45 minutes away — the Sierra Nevada, mainland Spain's highest range, home to Europe's southernmost ski resort in winter and superb hiking among the high peaks and the pretty white villages of the Alpujarras in summer. Ski in the morning and be back in the city for tapas by night (a rare treat), or hike the dramatic mountain trails in the warmer months. A spectacular natural escape on the city's doorstep; go for the snow or the summits. A wonderful highlight for the active. Beautiful year-round.