Spain runs three hours later than the rest of Europe and refuses to apologise. Lunch at three, dinner at ten, squares full of families at midnight — the schedule is the culture, and fighting it is the classic tourist mistake. Beyond the clock, Spain is really five or six countries wearing one flag: Catalonia and the Basque country barely resemble Andalusia, and each eats, speaks and parties differently. Barcelona is the front door for most people — sea, Gaudí and appetite in one walkable city.
What things cost: Spain is mid-range for western Europe and great value once you eat and drink like a local — the menú del día lunch and the vermut hour are the two best deals on the continent. Barcelona and San Sebastián price higher than the rest. When a zone below says 'low', that means low for Spain.