Southern Europe

Spain

Late dinners, loud plazas, and a different country every region.

mid-rangeEuro (€)

Spain runs three hours later than the rest of Europe and refuses to apologise. Lunch at three, dinner at ten, squares full of families at midnight — the schedule is the culture, and fighting it is the classic tourist mistake. Beyond the clock, Spain is really five or six countries wearing one flag: Catalonia and the Basque country barely resemble Andalusia, and each eats, speaks and parties differently. Barcelona is the front door for most people — sea, Gaudí and appetite in one walkable city.

What things cost: Spain is mid-range for western Europe and great value once you eat and drink like a local — the menú del día lunch and the vermut hour are the two best deals on the continent. Barcelona and San Sebastián price higher than the rest. When a zone below says 'low', that means low for Spain.

The cities

What’s on in Spain

Sometimes the event picks the city for you.

Every year

Nights in the Alcázar Gardens

Nightly through the summer, every year

Small evening concerts — early music, flamenco, jazz — held in the floodlit gardens of the Real Alcázar. The loveliest way to spend a warm Seville night.

Seville · Jardines del Real Alcázar

Every year

Veranos de la Villa

All July and August, every year

The city's summer programme — open-air concerts, film and theatre in courtyards and parks, timed for the evenings when Madrid finally cools down.

Madrid · Venues across the city

Every year

Festa Major de Gràcia

Mid-August, every year

Gràcia's streets compete to out-decorate each other — entire lanes transformed into coral reefs and space stations — with concerts and long tables under the handmade sky.

Barcelona · Gràcia

Every year

Nit de l'Art

Annually, September

A single night when Palma's galleries and museums throw open their doors for free, the old town fills with art, wine and crowds, and the city turns into one big opening. The cultural highlight of the year.

Palma · Citywide galleries

Every year

La Mercè

Around 24 September, every year

The city's enormous free festival — human towers in Plaça Sant Jaume, fire-running devils, giants parading, concerts on every square. Barcelona at maximum Catalan.

Barcelona · Citywide

Dec21

Santo Tomás Market

A beloved rural fair fills Plaza Nueva and the old town for a day before Christmas — farmers, livestock, txistorra sausage in bread and cider, everyone in Basque smocks. A warm, very local winter tradition.

Bilbao · Plaza Nueva & Casco Viejo