Málaga

A superbly preserved Moorish palace-fortress rising in tiers from the heart of the city — horseshoe arches, tiled patios, fountains and gardens, with the Roman theatre at its foot and views over the port. Málaga's finest sight, and a lovely, cool climb; combine it with the castle above.

A grand Renaissance cathedral nicknamed 'La Manquita' ('the one-armed lady') because its second tower was never finished — a soaring interior, and a rooftop tour among the vaults with a sweeping view over the old town. Beautiful and central; climb the roof for the best vantage on the city.

Málaga's most famous son gets a superb museum in a Renaissance palace in the old town — over 200 works spanning Picasso's whole career, drawn largely from his family's collection. A beautifully presented, manageable overview of the master, in the city where he was born; book ahead in high season.

A broad golden city beach right beside the old town — dark sand, calm swimming, palm-shaded promenade and chiringuitos, all a five-minute stroll from the cathedral. The joy of Málaga is that you can do museums and tapas in the morning and be swimming by lunch; buzzing all summer.

The Moorish castle crowning the hill above the Alcazaba, linked to it by a walled walkway — climb (or bus) up for ramparts to stroll and the finest panorama in Málaga, over the cathedral, the bullring, the port and the sea. Best in the late afternoon light; a lovely, breezy end to the day.

Málaga's signature — fresh sardines skewered on a cane and grilled over a wood fire in an old boat filled with sand, right on the beach, at a chiringuito in Pedregalejo or El Palo. Smoky, salty, unbeatable; order a plate with a cold beer and eat them with your fingers, feet in the sand.

A 1st-century Roman theatre unearthed at the foot of the Alcazaba, its stone tiers set dramatically against the Moorish walls above — 2,000 years of history layered in one view. Free to see, floodlit at night, and a striking illustration of the many civilisations that have shaped the city.

Málaga's reborn waterfront — a palm-lined port promenade of shops, restaurants and the little white 'crystal cube' of the Pompidou, a lovely stroll between the old town and the beach, with the lighthouse and yachts alongside. Come for a sunset walk, an ice cream and dinner by the water.

The elegant marble main street, Calle Larios, and the warren of pedestrian lanes and plazas around it — grand facades, orange trees, tapas bars and buzzing squares. The heart of Málaga's street life; wander it, tapas-hop the side streets, and feel why the city has become such a favourite.

The city's central market, behind a monumental Moorish-arched former shipyard gate and a huge stained-glass window — stalls of glistening fish, Iberian ham, olives and Málaga's sweet wine, with tapas counters to eat at. Come mid-morning for the buzz and a stand-up plate of fried fish.

The Soho district between the centre and the port has been transformed into an open-air gallery of huge murals by international street artists, alongside galleries, indie shops and cool bars. A colourful, arty wander and the hippest corner of the city; combine it with a craft beer and some tapas.

The first Pompidou outside France, in a colourful glass cube on the waterfront — a rotating slice of the great Paris modern-art collection (Picasso, Frida Kahlo, Bacon and more), small and very manageable. One of the museums that made Málaga a culture city; a fun, bite-sized hit of modern art by the sea.

Málaga is a brilliant tapas city — hop between old bodegas and buzzing bars for fried fish (pescaíto frito), garlicky prawns and Iberian ham, washed down with the local sweet Málaga wine straight from the barrel. Do a crawl of the old-town lanes; it's the tastiest, most sociable way to eat here.

The most charming stretch of Málaga's coast — a string of little sheltered coves and a palm-lined promenade in the old fishing barrio, lined with laid-back beach bars. Quieter and more local than the central sands; come for a lazy swim and lunch, and stay for the espetos as the sun goes down.

The leafy Plaza de la Merced, with its obelisk and buzzing terraces, is where Picasso was born in 1881 — his birthplace on the square is now a small museum and foundation. Sit at a café where the young artist played, then dip into the house; a pleasant, low-key stop in a lovely square.